{"id":10013,"date":"2025-11-20T09:13:59","date_gmt":"2025-11-20T09:13:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/?p=10013"},"modified":"2025-11-20T09:14:00","modified_gmt":"2025-11-20T09:14:00","slug":"making-an-embroidered-cardigan-from-crocheted-net-hexagonal-motifs","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/?p=10013","title":{"rendered":"Making an Embroidered Cardigan from Crocheted Net Hexagonal Motifs"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Making an Embroidered Cardigan from Crocheted Net Hexagonal Motifs<\/strong> \u2014 Step-by-step (US terms)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n

Here\u2019s a complete, ready-to-use written tutorial that recreates a cardigan built from hexagonal open\/net motifs<\/strong> (joined into panels) and finished with simple surface embroidery<\/strong> for the decorative look shown in the video. I give materials, an explicit hexagon motif worked in rounds, joining methods (JAYG and sewing), layout\/measurements for a cardigan, sleeve options, edging, embroidery suggestions, yarn estimates and troubleshooting. No video required \u2014 follow these steps and you\u2019ll get the same kind of finished cardigan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Quick overview<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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  • Construction: crochet many identical hexagon motifs<\/strong>, join into front\/back panels (hex grid), seam shoulders and sides, add sleeves (worked from picked-up sts or separate panels), then embroider<\/strong> floral\/line details on the joined fabric.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Skill: intermediate (round motifs, consistent blocking, sewing\/embroidery).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Finished look: airy, lacy, boho-elegant cardigan.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
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    Materials<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
      \n
    • Yarn: DK \/ light worsted<\/strong> cotton or cotton-blend (good drape and embroidery surface). For a more delicate look, use sport or fingering.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • Hook: 3.0\u20134.0 mm depending on yarn weight. Use a hook that gives an open lacy fabric but keeps motifs even.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • Tapestry needle for sewing and embroidery; blunt darning needle for ends.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • Blocking pins & mats.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • Embroidery needle + embroidery\/floss (or same yarn held single strand) for surface embroidery.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • Scissors, stitch markers.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • Optional: small buttons or ribbon if desired.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

      Estimated yarn (approx, DK):<\/p>\n\n\n\n

        \n
      • Small (S): 700\u2013900 g<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      • Medium (M): 900\u20131100 g<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      • Large (L): 1100\u20131400 g
        (Exact amount depends on motif size and number; see \u201cYarn estimate\u201d below.)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
        \n\n\n\n
        \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

        Abbreviations (US)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
          \n
        • ch = chain<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        • sl st = slip stitch<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        • sc = single crochet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        • hdc = half double crochet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        • dc = double crochet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        • tr = treble crochet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        • sp = space<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        • st = stitch<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        • rep = repeat<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        • JAYG = join-as-you-go<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
          \n\n\n\n

          Design choices you can make up front<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
            \n
          1. Motif size<\/strong>: make a test hexagon and block it \u2014 typical finished hexagon \u2248 10\u201312 cm with DK + 3.5 mm.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
          2. Layout<\/strong>: common cardigan layout uses motifs tiled into rectangles for front\/back (e.g., 5 motifs across \u00d7 4 rows per panel for small). I give layout examples later.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
          3. Embroidery design<\/strong>: floral vines, outlines of hexagon edges, or scattered little flowers on selected motifs. Use embroidery floss for fine lines or single-strand yarn for a chunkier look.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
            \n\n\n\n

            Hexagonal Net Motif \u2014 written pattern (one motif)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

            This hexagon is a lacy \u201cnet\u201d \u2014 airy center mesh, small picot petals, and an outer round with 6 corner groups so motifs tile as hexes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

            Make one motif to test size; block before committing.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

            Foundation \u2014 Round 1 (center)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
              \n
            1. Magic ring (or ch 4 and sl st to form ring).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
            2. ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc<\/strong> into ring (12 dc total). Pull tight and join with sl st to top of ch-3.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

              Round 2 \u2014 anchor loops<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                \n
              1. ch 1, sc in next dc, ch 3<\/em> \u2014 repeat around (12 sc + 12 ch-3 loops). Join with sl st.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                Round 3 \u2014 small fans<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                  \n
                1. Sl st into first ch-3 loop.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                2. Into each loop work: (sc, ch1, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, ch1, sc)<\/strong> \u2014 tapered fan\/petal. (12 petals)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                3. Join with sl st.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                  Round 4 \u2014 open net (chain arches)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                    \n
                  1. ch 1, sc in outer sc of petal, ch 5<\/em> \u2014 repeat around to create 12 ch-5 arches<\/strong>. Join with sl st.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                    Round 5 \u2014 narrow nets \/ connecting row<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                      \n
                    1. Into each ch-5 arch work: (sc, ch 2, sc)<\/strong> \u2014 small connector (12 connectors). Join.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                    2. This produces a spaced hexagon center that will be squared into a hex shape on outer rounds.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                      Round 6 \u2014 create corner groups (form hexagon)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                        \n
                      1. ch 3 (counts dc), dc in next connector, (dc, ch 2, dc)<\/strong> into the connector that will become a corner, dc in next connector<\/em> \u2014 the goal is to create 6 corner ch-2 spaces<\/strong> evenly placed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                      2. Practically: group connectors in sets so every second\/third connector becomes a corner\u2014aim for 6 corners total. Join.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                        (If this description feels abstract, think: you want six wider ch-2 corner spaces evenly around the motif; place 3 dc between corners.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                        Round 7 \u2014 even edging & joinable round<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                          \n
                        1. ch 1, sc evenly around edge; in each corner ch-2 place 3 sc<\/strong> to round the corner. Join with sl st.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                        2. Optional decorative final round: skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc<\/em> \u2014 for a scalloped edge. Fasten off and weave ends.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                        3. Block<\/strong> to exact dimensions and to make edges straight.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
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                          \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

                          Tips for consistent hexagons<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                            \n
                          • Keep the same number of stitches each round; the outer round must create 6<\/strong> evenly spaced corner groups. If your hexagon looks lopsided, add or remove a dc or ch in Round 6 to rebalance \u2014 block frequently while testing.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                          • If your yarn is stretchier, use a slightly smaller hook.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
                            \n\n\n\n

                            How to plan your cardigan layout<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

                            Measure your body or a garment you like. Decide finished bust<\/em> (F) and desired ease<\/em> (e.g., 6\u201310 cm for an open cardigan). Then:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                              \n
                            1. Measure blocked motif width (W)<\/strong> and height (H) \u2014 for perfect tiling these are same (hexagon measured across flats).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                            2. Compute motifs across for front half: motifs_across_half = round( (F\/2) \/ W )<\/code>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                            3. Decide motifs down (length): motifs_down = desired_length_cm \/ H<\/code> (crop vs hip length).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                            4. Example (W = 11 cm, F = 100 cm): half = 50 cm \u2192 50\/11 \u2248 4.5 \u2192 use 4 or 5 motifs<\/strong> across per half. Common layouts: small = 4\u00d73 per panel, medium = 5\u00d73, large = 6\u00d74, etc.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                              Example layout (Small):<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

                                \n
                              • Front panels each: 4 motifs across \u00d7 3 rows = 12 motifs per front.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                              • Back panel: 8 motifs across \u00d7 3 rows = 24 motifs (or construct back as 8 across or join front panels around to make back).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                              • Total motifs \u2248 48 motifs + extras for sleeves\/edging. (Adjust per exact calculation.)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
                                \n\n\n\n

                                Joining motifs into panels<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

                                Two options:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                                Option A \u2014 Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) \u2014 recommended for minimal sewing<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                                  \n
                                • Finish motifs up to Round 6 (before sc tidy round). On the 7th round (sc round), when you reach an edge that touches an existing motif, replace the sc<\/strong> with: sc in your motif, ch 1, sl st into the corresponding sc (or corner) of the neighbor motif, ch 1<\/code> \u2014 continue.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                • For corners where three motifs meet, sl st into both neighbors\u2019 corners symmetrically.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                • Work in rows: make first row of motifs left\u2192right, then start the next row and join each motif to the motif above and to its left as needed. Use pins to line up centers before joining.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                                  Option B \u2014 Block then sew (neater for beginners)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                                    \n
                                  • Block all motifs to exact same size and pin on blocking mat.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                  • Lay them out and sew with tapestry needle using mattress stitch through back loops only \u2014 this gives a flatter seam.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                  • Whipstitch is faster but produces a slightly bulkier seam.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
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                                    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

                                    Seaming for cardigan shape<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                      \n
                                    • Join motifs into two front panels<\/strong> and a back panel<\/strong>, or construct a single large rectangle and fold.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                    • Shoulder seam: join the top row motifs of front & back leaving a neck opening in the center (leave 2\u20133 motif widths depending on neck width you want).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                    • Side seams: join motifs vertically from hem up leaving armhole height free (e.g., leave 15\u201318 cm for small adult). Alternatively, join entire panels then cut armholes and finish edges.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
                                      \n\n\n\n

                                      Sleeve options<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                        \n
                                      1. Short cap sleeve:<\/strong> add 1\u20132 motifs around upper arm and seam in.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                      2. Set-in sleeve by pickup:<\/strong> with RS facing, pick up sts around armhole and work in rounds of the motif repeat adapted to circular shaping (or do simple dc rounds) until desired sleeve length; finish with sc cuff.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                      3. Separate motif sleeve:<\/strong> make rectangular sleeve from hexagons (strip of motifs sewn into a tube) and sew into armhole.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                                        Practical: many motif cardigans use a wide short sleeve<\/strong> made from one row of motifs sewn to the armhole edge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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                                        Neckline, edgings & closure<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                          \n
                                        • Work a sc round<\/strong> around neckline\/front edges to stabilize. Place 3 sc in corners to keep points round.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                        • Decorative border: 1\u20132 rounds of shells: skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc, skip 2 sc, sc in next sc<\/em>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                        • Buttons: if you want closure, sew small buttons on one side and make small chain loops on the other side during the border round.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
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                                          \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

                                          Embroidery \u2014 where & how<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

                                          Embroider after<\/strong> joining and blocking. Use embroidery floss (2\u20133 strands) or same yarn single strand depending on thickness. Use a blunt tapestry\/embroidery needle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                                          Simple embroidery ideas shown in the video style:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

                                            \n
                                          • Outline hex centers<\/strong>: run a chain stitch (or surface sl st) around the inner ring of selected motifs to highlight them.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                          • Small floral sprigs<\/strong>: single lazy daisy (detached chain) for petals + french knot center on a few motifs to create scattered flowers.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                          • Vines between hexes<\/strong>: surface chain stitch (or stem stitch) crossing seams to join motifs with a vine look.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                          • Contrast color lines<\/strong> across rows: outline every other hex edge for stripe effect.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                                            Stitches to use<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

                                              \n
                                            • Backstitch \/ stem stitch<\/strong> \u2014 for vines\/lines.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                            • Lazy daisy<\/strong> \u2014 petals (small petal shape); secure with tiny sc or French knot.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                            • French knot<\/strong> \u2014 small flower centers or dots.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                            • Surface slip stitch<\/strong> \u2014 simple raised line across motif.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                                              Practical embroidery method<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

                                                \n
                                              1. Mark embroidery plan lightly with pins or removable marker.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                              2. Use short stitches; secure floss ends by weaving to the back through a couple of stitches.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                              3. Keep tension even; don\u2019t pull tight (you may pucker the crochet).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                              4. Block again lightly after embroidery if needed.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
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                                                Blocking & final assembly<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                                  \n
                                                1. Block each motif to the target size precisely. This is essential for clean joining.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                2. Join motifs into panels and block the assembled panel to even seams.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                3. Add edging and sleeves, then block whole cardigan into final shape.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                4. Embroider on the blocked, assembled garment (pin designs first).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                5. Weave in ends; sew buttons if used.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
                                                  \n\n\n\n
                                                  \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

                                                  Yarn estimate & motif counts (practical example)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                                    \n
                                                  • Suppose your blocked motif = 11 cm across flats. For a cardigan with front half ~50 cm and length ~60 cm:\n
                                                      \n
                                                    • motifs_across_half \u2248 50\/11 \u2248 4.5 \u2192 use 5 motifs across per half<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                    • motifs_down \u2248 length\/H \u2248 60\/11 \u2248 5.5 \u2192 use 6 rows<\/strong> for a hip-length cardigan.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                    • Front panel = 5 \u00d7 6 = 30 motifs; back panel = 10 \u00d7 6 = 60 motifs \u2192 total ~120 motifs. Add ~10\u201320 motifs for sleeves\/edging.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                    • If each motif uses ~10\u201312 g of DK, yarn needed \u2248 120 \u00d7 11 g = 1320 g \u2192 ~1.3 kg (adjust per gauge). This matches the earlier yarn estimates.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                                                      Important:<\/strong> make one motif and weigh it to estimate yarn per motif \u2014 that\u2019s the most accurate way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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                                                      Troubleshooting & tips<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                                        \n
                                                      • Motifs different sizes:<\/strong> block them all to the same dimensions. If a few are smaller, add a round of sc or a thin outer shell to even them.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                      • Seams puckering:<\/strong> join more loosely (especially JAYG sl st joins). If seams still pucker, sew through back loops only for less bulk.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                      • Hexagon edges don\u2019t match:<\/strong> ensure you formed exactly six corner groups in Round 6; recount and rebalance if necessary.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                      • Embroidery puckers the lace:<\/strong> use thinner floss or single strand of yarn and don\u2019t pull tight; test on a spare motif.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                      • Armholes too small:<\/strong> leave more motifs unjoined at the side seam or unpick and reseam with larger armhole.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
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                                                        Quick workflow (summary)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                                          \n
                                                        1. Make one motif \u2192 block & measure.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                        2. Calculate motif layout \u2192 compute total motifs required.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                        3. Crochet all motifs (or batch them row by row).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                        4. Block motifs.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                        5. Join motifs into panels (JAYG or sew).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                        6. Seam shoulders & sides; add sleeves or pick up stitches.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                        7. Work borders & edging.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                        8. Embroider decorative motifs.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                                        9. Final block; weave ends & add closures.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                                                          VIDEO:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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