This is a jelly-roll-friendly, strip-pieced project Matt teaches in the video \u2014 fast, repeatable, and perfect for using a prepacked jelly roll or a stash of 2\u00bd” strips. Below is a practical, sew-at-the-machine, numbered tutorial that follows the exact workflow Matt uses: prep \u2192 strip-piecing \u2192 sub-cut \u2192 assemble \u2192 trim \u2192 set \u2192 borders \u2192 quilt & bind. (I watched the Jordan Fabrics demo to make these instructions match the video\u2019s rhythm and tips.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n
Quick facts (what you\u2019re making)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n\n- Project style: Jelly-roll friendly strip quilt<\/strong> (uses 2\u00bd” strips, strip-piecing and sub-cutting).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Typical workflow Matt uses: chain-piece long strip sets, sub-cut stacked blanks, assemble in batches, trim to size, set blocks into rows and add borders.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/8-8.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nMaterials & tools (for a throw-sized sample)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n\n- 1 jelly roll (40 \u00d7 2\u00bd” strips)<\/strong> \u2014 assorted coordinated prints (or about the equivalent in fat quarters \/ cut strips).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Background\/setting fabric<\/strong> \u2014 ~2\u20133 yards (for sashing\/frames, setting triangles, borders).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Border fabric<\/strong> \u2014 ~1 yard.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Backing<\/strong> \u2014 ~4\u20135 yards (or piece backing to size).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Batting<\/strong> \u2014 about 70″ \u00d7 90″ (a little larger than finished top).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Binding fabric<\/strong> \u2014 ~\u00bd\u20131 yard (or make from scraps).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Tools: rotary cutter & mat, long ruler (24″), square ruler (6\u00bd” or 9″), sewing machine with \u00bc” foot, iron\/pressing surface, pins\/clips, safety pins or spray basting.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nBefore you start (prep)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n\n- Press all strips lightly so they lie flat. Sort into rough color\/value groups (dark \u2192 medium \u2192 light) if you want a gradated look, or leave assorted for a scrappy effect.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Decide the block scale you want (Matt demonstrates building several scale examples). This tutorial assumes a medium-scale throw \u2014 adjust sub-cut lengths if you want smaller or larger blocks.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/2-10.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nStep-by-step construction<\/h1>\n\n\n\n1) Decide block structure & strip grouping<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Choose how many strips will make one \u201crail\u201d or band in your block (common choices: 3-strip or 4-strip bands). Matt often uses groups of 3 or 4 strips sewn together to make a block blank. Group strips into piles of the same count so you can chain-piece quickly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
2) Sew long strip sets (chain-piecing)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Stack the strips for one block in the order you want them to read (top \u2192 middle \u2192 bottom).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sew the strips together along the long edges with a consistent \u00bc” seam<\/strong> to create long strip sets. Chain-piece many sets without cutting threads between seams to save time. Press seams toward the darker fabrics or open \u2014 be consistent.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
3) Sub-cut your strip sets into identical blanks<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- From each sewn strip set, sub-cut identical length blanks (for a medium throw a common unfinished blank length is about 6\u00bd”\u20138″<\/strong> \u2014 pick one length and cut all blanks the same). Stack multiple strip sets and cut them together to keep all blanks uniform. Cut a few extra blanks to allow for trimming\/any mismatches.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/4-6.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n4) Assemble block units<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Each blank becomes a block (or a half of a block depending on your layout). Lay out blanks into the block arrangement Matt demonstrates (for example: alternate rotated blanks to create diagonal movement, or place all blanks the same direction for a striped field). Sew blanks into rows \u2014 press seams so they nest when joining rows.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
5) Trim & square (crucial)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- After sewing small sub-units\/blocks, trim them to a uniform size<\/strong> using your square ruler so rows join cleanly. Matt strongly encourages trimming units before final assembly to prevent cumulative error. Trim each block to the chosen unfinished block size (e.g., if you sub-cut at 7\u00bd” unfinished, trim to that measurement exactly).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
6) Layout the quilt top<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Lay out trimmed blocks\/rows on a design wall or floor. This is where you balance color and value \u2014 shuffle until the overall look pleases you. If you used alternating rotations, the diagonal effect will start to appear when you place rows. Matt walks through layout adjustments in the video; mimic his balancing by stepping back often and moving groups until the color flow reads well.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/5-5.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n7) Join rows to build the quilt top<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Sew rows together with a \u00bc” seam, taking care to match seams at intersections. Press rows; measure the top width and height to ensure borders will fit. Square the top if needed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
8) Add borders<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Add inner and outer borders per your chosen look. A narrow inner border in background fabric helps frame the strip field; a wider outer border finishes the quilt to final size. Cut border strips to the measured lengths plus seam allowances and sew on (sides first, then top\/bottom, or vice versa).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
9) Baste the sandwich<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Baste quilt top + batting + backing with spray or safety pins. Smooth and check for any puckers. Matt uses pin basting in his demos for even tension.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
10) Quilting suggestions<\/h3>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/11\/6-8.png\")
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Quilting styles that work great with jelly-roll strip quilts:\n
\n- Straight-line quilting<\/strong> following the strip direction (accentuates linear look).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Echo quilting<\/strong> to highlight bands\/blocks.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- All-over meander<\/strong> for a cozy textured finish that\u2019s quick to stitch.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Choose thread and quilting density to suit batting and desired drape \u2014 Matt often uses a moderate echo or straight-line quilting to keep the strips as the visual star.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
11) Trim, bind & finish<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Trim the quilt sandwich even with the top, make binding strips (2\u00bd” is common), attach binding, fold to the back and stitch down by hand or machine. Label your quilt and enjoy!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nTips & shortcuts Matt shows in the video<\/h1>\n\n\n\n\n- One jelly roll \u2192 one quilt<\/strong>: a single jelly roll can often make the entire top (Matt demonstrates jelly-roll economies in his demos). <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Batch everything<\/strong>: chain-piece many strip sets, sub-cut stacked blanks, then sew blocks in batches \u2014 huge time savings. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Keep a consistent \u00bc” seam<\/strong> \u2014 accuracy here makes the whole top fit together neatly. Use a \u00bc” foot and test on scraps. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Trim early<\/strong> \u2014 trim sub-units and blocks before final assembly so errors don\u2019t accumulate. Matt repeats this practical tip throughout the demo.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
VIDEO:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n
Materials & tools (for a throw-sized sample)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n\n- 1 jelly roll (40 \u00d7 2\u00bd” strips)<\/strong> \u2014 assorted coordinated prints (or about the equivalent in fat quarters \/ cut strips).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Background\/setting fabric<\/strong> \u2014 ~2\u20133 yards (for sashing\/frames, setting triangles, borders).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Border fabric<\/strong> \u2014 ~1 yard.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Backing<\/strong> \u2014 ~4\u20135 yards (or piece backing to size).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Batting<\/strong> \u2014 about 70″ \u00d7 90″ (a little larger than finished top).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Binding fabric<\/strong> \u2014 ~\u00bd\u20131 yard (or make from scraps).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Tools: rotary cutter & mat, long ruler (24″), square ruler (6\u00bd” or 9″), sewing machine with \u00bc” foot, iron\/pressing surface, pins\/clips, safety pins or spray basting.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nBefore you start (prep)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n\n- Press all strips lightly so they lie flat. Sort into rough color\/value groups (dark \u2192 medium \u2192 light) if you want a gradated look, or leave assorted for a scrappy effect.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Decide the block scale you want (Matt demonstrates building several scale examples). This tutorial assumes a medium-scale throw \u2014 adjust sub-cut lengths if you want smaller or larger blocks.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nStep-by-step construction<\/h1>\n\n\n\n1) Decide block structure & strip grouping<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Choose how many strips will make one \u201crail\u201d or band in your block (common choices: 3-strip or 4-strip bands). Matt often uses groups of 3 or 4 strips sewn together to make a block blank. Group strips into piles of the same count so you can chain-piece quickly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
2) Sew long strip sets (chain-piecing)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Stack the strips for one block in the order you want them to read (top \u2192 middle \u2192 bottom).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sew the strips together along the long edges with a consistent \u00bc” seam<\/strong> to create long strip sets. Chain-piece many sets without cutting threads between seams to save time. Press seams toward the darker fabrics or open \u2014 be consistent.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
3) Sub-cut your strip sets into identical blanks<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- From each sewn strip set, sub-cut identical length blanks (for a medium throw a common unfinished blank length is about 6\u00bd”\u20138″<\/strong> \u2014 pick one length and cut all blanks the same). Stack multiple strip sets and cut them together to keep all blanks uniform. Cut a few extra blanks to allow for trimming\/any mismatches.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n4) Assemble block units<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Each blank becomes a block (or a half of a block depending on your layout). Lay out blanks into the block arrangement Matt demonstrates (for example: alternate rotated blanks to create diagonal movement, or place all blanks the same direction for a striped field). Sew blanks into rows \u2014 press seams so they nest when joining rows.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
5) Trim & square (crucial)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- After sewing small sub-units\/blocks, trim them to a uniform size<\/strong> using your square ruler so rows join cleanly. Matt strongly encourages trimming units before final assembly to prevent cumulative error. Trim each block to the chosen unfinished block size (e.g., if you sub-cut at 7\u00bd” unfinished, trim to that measurement exactly).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
6) Layout the quilt top<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Lay out trimmed blocks\/rows on a design wall or floor. This is where you balance color and value \u2014 shuffle until the overall look pleases you. If you used alternating rotations, the diagonal effect will start to appear when you place rows. Matt walks through layout adjustments in the video; mimic his balancing by stepping back often and moving groups until the color flow reads well.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n7) Join rows to build the quilt top<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Sew rows together with a \u00bc” seam, taking care to match seams at intersections. Press rows; measure the top width and height to ensure borders will fit. Square the top if needed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
8) Add borders<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Add inner and outer borders per your chosen look. A narrow inner border in background fabric helps frame the strip field; a wider outer border finishes the quilt to final size. Cut border strips to the measured lengths plus seam allowances and sew on (sides first, then top\/bottom, or vice versa).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
9) Baste the sandwich<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Baste quilt top + batting + backing with spray or safety pins. Smooth and check for any puckers. Matt uses pin basting in his demos for even tension.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
10) Quilting suggestions<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Quilting styles that work great with jelly-roll strip quilts:\n
\n- Straight-line quilting<\/strong> following the strip direction (accentuates linear look).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Echo quilting<\/strong> to highlight bands\/blocks.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- All-over meander<\/strong> for a cozy textured finish that\u2019s quick to stitch.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Choose thread and quilting density to suit batting and desired drape \u2014 Matt often uses a moderate echo or straight-line quilting to keep the strips as the visual star.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
11) Trim, bind & finish<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Trim the quilt sandwich even with the top, make binding strips (2\u00bd” is common), attach binding, fold to the back and stitch down by hand or machine. Label your quilt and enjoy!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nTips & shortcuts Matt shows in the video<\/h1>\n\n\n\n\n- One jelly roll \u2192 one quilt<\/strong>: a single jelly roll can often make the entire top (Matt demonstrates jelly-roll economies in his demos). <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Batch everything<\/strong>: chain-piece many strip sets, sub-cut stacked blanks, then sew blocks in batches \u2014 huge time savings. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Keep a consistent \u00bc” seam<\/strong> \u2014 accuracy here makes the whole top fit together neatly. Use a \u00bc” foot and test on scraps. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Trim early<\/strong> \u2014 trim sub-units and blocks before final assembly so errors don\u2019t accumulate. Matt repeats this practical tip throughout the demo.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
VIDEO:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n
Before you start (prep)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n\n- Press all strips lightly so they lie flat. Sort into rough color\/value groups (dark \u2192 medium \u2192 light) if you want a gradated look, or leave assorted for a scrappy effect.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Decide the block scale you want (Matt demonstrates building several scale examples). This tutorial assumes a medium-scale throw \u2014 adjust sub-cut lengths if you want smaller or larger blocks.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\nStep-by-step construction<\/h1>\n\n\n\n1) Decide block structure & strip grouping<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Choose how many strips will make one \u201crail\u201d or band in your block (common choices: 3-strip or 4-strip bands). Matt often uses groups of 3 or 4 strips sewn together to make a block blank. Group strips into piles of the same count so you can chain-piece quickly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
2) Sew long strip sets (chain-piecing)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Stack the strips for one block in the order you want them to read (top \u2192 middle \u2192 bottom).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sew the strips together along the long edges with a consistent \u00bc” seam<\/strong> to create long strip sets. Chain-piece many sets without cutting threads between seams to save time. Press seams toward the darker fabrics or open \u2014 be consistent.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
3) Sub-cut your strip sets into identical blanks<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- From each sewn strip set, sub-cut identical length blanks (for a medium throw a common unfinished blank length is about 6\u00bd”\u20138″<\/strong> \u2014 pick one length and cut all blanks the same). Stack multiple strip sets and cut them together to keep all blanks uniform. Cut a few extra blanks to allow for trimming\/any mismatches.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n4) Assemble block units<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Each blank becomes a block (or a half of a block depending on your layout). Lay out blanks into the block arrangement Matt demonstrates (for example: alternate rotated blanks to create diagonal movement, or place all blanks the same direction for a striped field). Sew blanks into rows \u2014 press seams so they nest when joining rows.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
5) Trim & square (crucial)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- After sewing small sub-units\/blocks, trim them to a uniform size<\/strong> using your square ruler so rows join cleanly. Matt strongly encourages trimming units before final assembly to prevent cumulative error. Trim each block to the chosen unfinished block size (e.g., if you sub-cut at 7\u00bd” unfinished, trim to that measurement exactly).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
6) Layout the quilt top<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Lay out trimmed blocks\/rows on a design wall or floor. This is where you balance color and value \u2014 shuffle until the overall look pleases you. If you used alternating rotations, the diagonal effect will start to appear when you place rows. Matt walks through layout adjustments in the video; mimic his balancing by stepping back often and moving groups until the color flow reads well.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n7) Join rows to build the quilt top<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Sew rows together with a \u00bc” seam, taking care to match seams at intersections. Press rows; measure the top width and height to ensure borders will fit. Square the top if needed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
8) Add borders<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Add inner and outer borders per your chosen look. A narrow inner border in background fabric helps frame the strip field; a wider outer border finishes the quilt to final size. Cut border strips to the measured lengths plus seam allowances and sew on (sides first, then top\/bottom, or vice versa).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
9) Baste the sandwich<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Baste quilt top + batting + backing with spray or safety pins. Smooth and check for any puckers. Matt uses pin basting in his demos for even tension.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
10) Quilting suggestions<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Quilting styles that work great with jelly-roll strip quilts:\n
\n- Straight-line quilting<\/strong> following the strip direction (accentuates linear look).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Echo quilting<\/strong> to highlight bands\/blocks.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- All-over meander<\/strong> for a cozy textured finish that\u2019s quick to stitch.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Choose thread and quilting density to suit batting and desired drape \u2014 Matt often uses a moderate echo or straight-line quilting to keep the strips as the visual star.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
11) Trim, bind & finish<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Trim the quilt sandwich even with the top, make binding strips (2\u00bd” is common), attach binding, fold to the back and stitch down by hand or machine. Label your quilt and enjoy!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nTips & shortcuts Matt shows in the video<\/h1>\n\n\n\n\n- One jelly roll \u2192 one quilt<\/strong>: a single jelly roll can often make the entire top (Matt demonstrates jelly-roll economies in his demos). <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Batch everything<\/strong>: chain-piece many strip sets, sub-cut stacked blanks, then sew blocks in batches \u2014 huge time savings. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Keep a consistent \u00bc” seam<\/strong> \u2014 accuracy here makes the whole top fit together neatly. Use a \u00bc” foot and test on scraps. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Trim early<\/strong> \u2014 trim sub-units and blocks before final assembly so errors don\u2019t accumulate. Matt repeats this practical tip throughout the demo.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
VIDEO:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\nStep-by-step construction<\/h1>\n\n\n\n1) Decide block structure & strip grouping<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Choose how many strips will make one \u201crail\u201d or band in your block (common choices: 3-strip or 4-strip bands). Matt often uses groups of 3 or 4 strips sewn together to make a block blank. Group strips into piles of the same count so you can chain-piece quickly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
2) Sew long strip sets (chain-piecing)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Stack the strips for one block in the order you want them to read (top \u2192 middle \u2192 bottom).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sew the strips together along the long edges with a consistent \u00bc” seam<\/strong> to create long strip sets. Chain-piece many sets without cutting threads between seams to save time. Press seams toward the darker fabrics or open \u2014 be consistent.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
3) Sub-cut your strip sets into identical blanks<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- From each sewn strip set, sub-cut identical length blanks (for a medium throw a common unfinished blank length is about 6\u00bd”\u20138″<\/strong> \u2014 pick one length and cut all blanks the same). Stack multiple strip sets and cut them together to keep all blanks uniform. Cut a few extra blanks to allow for trimming\/any mismatches.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n4) Assemble block units<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Each blank becomes a block (or a half of a block depending on your layout). Lay out blanks into the block arrangement Matt demonstrates (for example: alternate rotated blanks to create diagonal movement, or place all blanks the same direction for a striped field). Sew blanks into rows \u2014 press seams so they nest when joining rows.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
5) Trim & square (crucial)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- After sewing small sub-units\/blocks, trim them to a uniform size<\/strong> using your square ruler so rows join cleanly. Matt strongly encourages trimming units before final assembly to prevent cumulative error. Trim each block to the chosen unfinished block size (e.g., if you sub-cut at 7\u00bd” unfinished, trim to that measurement exactly).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
6) Layout the quilt top<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Lay out trimmed blocks\/rows on a design wall or floor. This is where you balance color and value \u2014 shuffle until the overall look pleases you. If you used alternating rotations, the diagonal effect will start to appear when you place rows. Matt walks through layout adjustments in the video; mimic his balancing by stepping back often and moving groups until the color flow reads well.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n7) Join rows to build the quilt top<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Sew rows together with a \u00bc” seam, taking care to match seams at intersections. Press rows; measure the top width and height to ensure borders will fit. Square the top if needed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
8) Add borders<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Add inner and outer borders per your chosen look. A narrow inner border in background fabric helps frame the strip field; a wider outer border finishes the quilt to final size. Cut border strips to the measured lengths plus seam allowances and sew on (sides first, then top\/bottom, or vice versa).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
9) Baste the sandwich<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Baste quilt top + batting + backing with spray or safety pins. Smooth and check for any puckers. Matt uses pin basting in his demos for even tension.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
10) Quilting suggestions<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n- Quilting styles that work great with jelly-roll strip quilts:\n
\n- Straight-line quilting<\/strong> following the strip direction (accentuates linear look).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Echo quilting<\/strong> to highlight bands\/blocks.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- All-over meander<\/strong> for a cozy textured finish that\u2019s quick to stitch.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Choose thread and quilting density to suit batting and desired drape \u2014 Matt often uses a moderate echo or straight-line quilting to keep the strips as the visual star.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
11) Trim, bind & finish<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n- Trim the quilt sandwich even with the top, make binding strips (2\u00bd” is common), attach binding, fold to the back and stitch down by hand or machine. Label your quilt and enjoy!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nTips & shortcuts Matt shows in the video<\/h1>\n\n\n\n\n- One jelly roll \u2192 one quilt<\/strong>: a single jelly roll can often make the entire top (Matt demonstrates jelly-roll economies in his demos). <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Batch everything<\/strong>: chain-piece many strip sets, sub-cut stacked blanks, then sew blocks in batches \u2014 huge time savings. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Keep a consistent \u00bc” seam<\/strong> \u2014 accuracy here makes the whole top fit together neatly. Use a \u00bc” foot and test on scraps. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Trim early<\/strong> \u2014 trim sub-units and blocks before final assembly so errors don\u2019t accumulate. Matt repeats this practical tip throughout the demo.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
VIDEO:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Choose how many strips will make one \u201crail\u201d or band in your block (common choices: 3-strip or 4-strip bands). Matt often uses groups of 3 or 4 strips sewn together to make a block blank. Group strips into piles of the same count so you can chain-piece quickly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
2) Sew long strip sets (chain-piecing)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Stack the strips for one block in the order you want them to read (top \u2192 middle \u2192 bottom).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Sew the strips together along the long edges with a consistent \u00bc” seam<\/strong> to create long strip sets. Chain-piece many sets without cutting threads between seams to save time. Press seams toward the darker fabrics or open \u2014 be consistent.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
3) Sub-cut your strip sets into identical blanks<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- From each sewn strip set, sub-cut identical length blanks (for a medium throw a common unfinished blank length is about 6\u00bd”\u20138″<\/strong> \u2014 pick one length and cut all blanks the same). Stack multiple strip sets and cut them together to keep all blanks uniform. Cut a few extra blanks to allow for trimming\/any mismatches.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
4) Assemble block units<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Each blank becomes a block (or a half of a block depending on your layout). Lay out blanks into the block arrangement Matt demonstrates (for example: alternate rotated blanks to create diagonal movement, or place all blanks the same direction for a striped field). Sew blanks into rows \u2014 press seams so they nest when joining rows.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
5) Trim & square (crucial)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- After sewing small sub-units\/blocks, trim them to a uniform size<\/strong> using your square ruler so rows join cleanly. Matt strongly encourages trimming units before final assembly to prevent cumulative error. Trim each block to the chosen unfinished block size (e.g., if you sub-cut at 7\u00bd” unfinished, trim to that measurement exactly).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
6) Layout the quilt top<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Lay out trimmed blocks\/rows on a design wall or floor. This is where you balance color and value \u2014 shuffle until the overall look pleases you. If you used alternating rotations, the diagonal effect will start to appear when you place rows. Matt walks through layout adjustments in the video; mimic his balancing by stepping back often and moving groups until the color flow reads well.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
7) Join rows to build the quilt top<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Sew rows together with a \u00bc” seam, taking care to match seams at intersections. Press rows; measure the top width and height to ensure borders will fit. Square the top if needed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
8) Add borders<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Add inner and outer borders per your chosen look. A narrow inner border in background fabric helps frame the strip field; a wider outer border finishes the quilt to final size. Cut border strips to the measured lengths plus seam allowances and sew on (sides first, then top\/bottom, or vice versa).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
9) Baste the sandwich<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Baste quilt top + batting + backing with spray or safety pins. Smooth and check for any puckers. Matt uses pin basting in his demos for even tension.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
10) Quilting suggestions<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure>\n\n\n\n- \n
- Quilting styles that work great with jelly-roll strip quilts:\n
- \n
- Straight-line quilting<\/strong> following the strip direction (accentuates linear look).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Echo quilting<\/strong> to highlight bands\/blocks.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- All-over meander<\/strong> for a cozy textured finish that\u2019s quick to stitch.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Choose thread and quilting density to suit batting and desired drape \u2014 Matt often uses a moderate echo or straight-line quilting to keep the strips as the visual star.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
11) Trim, bind & finish<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- Trim the quilt sandwich even with the top, make binding strips (2\u00bd” is common), attach binding, fold to the back and stitch down by hand or machine. Label your quilt and enjoy!<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\nTips & shortcuts Matt shows in the video<\/h1>\n\n\n\n
- \n
- One jelly roll \u2192 one quilt<\/strong>: a single jelly roll can often make the entire top (Matt demonstrates jelly-roll economies in his demos). <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Batch everything<\/strong>: chain-piece many strip sets, sub-cut stacked blanks, then sew blocks in batches \u2014 huge time savings. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Keep a consistent \u00bc” seam<\/strong> \u2014 accuracy here makes the whole top fit together neatly. Use a \u00bc” foot and test on scraps. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Trim early<\/strong> \u2014 trim sub-units and blocks before final assembly so errors don\u2019t accumulate. Matt repeats this practical tip throughout the demo.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
VIDEO:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
- Batch everything<\/strong>: chain-piece many strip sets, sub-cut stacked blanks, then sew blocks in batches \u2014 huge time savings. <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- One jelly roll \u2192 one quilt<\/strong>: a single jelly roll can often make the entire top (Matt demonstrates jelly-roll economies in his demos). <\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Echo quilting<\/strong> to highlight bands\/blocks.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Straight-line quilting<\/strong> following the strip direction (accentuates linear look).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
- Quilting styles that work great with jelly-roll strip quilts:\n
- Baste quilt top + batting + backing with spray or safety pins. Smooth and check for any puckers. Matt uses pin basting in his demos for even tension.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- Add inner and outer borders per your chosen look. A narrow inner border in background fabric helps frame the strip field; a wider outer border finishes the quilt to final size. Cut border strips to the measured lengths plus seam allowances and sew on (sides first, then top\/bottom, or vice versa).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- Sew rows together with a \u00bc” seam, taking care to match seams at intersections. Press rows; measure the top width and height to ensure borders will fit. Square the top if needed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- Lay out trimmed blocks\/rows on a design wall or floor. This is where you balance color and value \u2014 shuffle until the overall look pleases you. If you used alternating rotations, the diagonal effect will start to appear when you place rows. Matt walks through layout adjustments in the video; mimic his balancing by stepping back often and moving groups until the color flow reads well.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- After sewing small sub-units\/blocks, trim them to a uniform size<\/strong> using your square ruler so rows join cleanly. Matt strongly encourages trimming units before final assembly to prevent cumulative error. Trim each block to the chosen unfinished block size (e.g., if you sub-cut at 7\u00bd” unfinished, trim to that measurement exactly).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- Each blank becomes a block (or a half of a block depending on your layout). Lay out blanks into the block arrangement Matt demonstrates (for example: alternate rotated blanks to create diagonal movement, or place all blanks the same direction for a striped field). Sew blanks into rows \u2014 press seams so they nest when joining rows.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
- From each sewn strip set, sub-cut identical length blanks (for a medium throw a common unfinished blank length is about 6\u00bd”\u20138″<\/strong> \u2014 pick one length and cut all blanks the same). Stack multiple strip sets and cut them together to keep all blanks uniform. Cut a few extra blanks to allow for trimming\/any mismatches.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n