{"id":10394,"date":"2025-12-01T03:55:51","date_gmt":"2025-12-01T03:55:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/?p=10394"},"modified":"2025-12-01T03:55:52","modified_gmt":"2025-12-01T03:55:52","slug":"%f0%9f%8c%9fextraordinary%e2%9d%97%ef%b8%8fcrochet-square-motif-pattern-tutorial%f0%9f%8c%9f","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/?p=10394","title":{"rendered":"\ud83c\udf1fEXTRAORDINARY\u2757\ufe0fCrochet Square Motif Pattern Tutorial\ud83c\udf1f"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

\ud83c\udf1f Extraordinary Crochet Square Motif \u2014 Step-by-Step<\/h1>\n\n\n\n

Finished (blocked) size:<\/strong> ~10\u201313 cm (4\u20135 in) with DK yarn + 4.0 mm hook (adjust hook\/yarn to change size)
Yarn:<\/strong> DK \/ sport \/ mercerized cotton for crisp lace
Hook:<\/strong> 3.5\u20134.5 mm (or appropriate for yarn)
Notions:<\/strong> tapestry needle, blocking pins, scissors<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Abbreviations<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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  • ch = chain<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • sl st = slip stitch<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • sc = single crochet (US)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • hdc = half double crochet (US)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • dc = double crochet (US)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • tr = treble crochet (US)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • pic = picot (ch 3, sl st into base)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • sp = space<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • st(s) = stitch(es)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • rep = repeat<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
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    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Notes (before starting)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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    • I use US stitch names<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • Pattern is worked from the center out: circular medallion \u2192 lacy arches \u2192 frame that converts the circle into a square with corner loops \u2192 scalloped picot edge.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • Counts are given so you can check your work.<\/strong> If your motif cups or waves, adjust tension or arch chain lengths.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
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      Round-by-round pattern (exact where possible)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

      Round 1 \u2014 neat center<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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      1. Make a magic ring<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      2. ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 15 dc<\/strong> into ring. (ch-3 + 15 dc = 16 dc total<\/strong>.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      3. Pull ring closed, sl st to top of ch-3 to join. (16 dc)<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

        Round 2 \u2014 chain loop foundation (8 loops)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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        1. Ch 4, skip next dc, sc in next dc<\/em> \u2014 repeat around.\n
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          • Because you skip every other dc of the 16 dc, you will make 8 ch-4 loops<\/strong> and 8 sc<\/strong> between them. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 ch-4 loops + 8 sc)<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

            Round 3 \u2014 puffy petals (8 petals)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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            1. In each ch-4 loop work: (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc)<\/strong> \u2014 all into the same ch-4 loop.\n
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              • That cluster shapes a wide petal. Repeat into each loop for 8 petals<\/strong>. Join with sl st. (8 petals total)<\/em><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                Round 4 \u2014 tidy base round (sc round)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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                1. Rejoin between any two petals. Work sc<\/strong> evenly around the base of the petals to make the motif round and even.\n
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                  • Distribute approximately 10 sc across each petal<\/strong> area for a neat circle (8 \u00d7 10 = ~80 sc<\/strong> total). Adjust by \u00b11\u20133 sc per petal to keep the round flat. Join with sl st.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
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                    Quick check: after this round you should have a smooth, nearly circular outer boundary ready for arches.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

                    Round 5 \u2014 large lacy arches (the dramatic frame)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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                    1. Working from petal tops and the sc round anchors: sl st to top of petal \u2192 ch 7 \u2192 anchor into the sc round between the next petals with (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr) worked into that sc or small space \u2192 sl st to next petal top.<\/em><\/li>\n\n\n\n
                    2. Repeat all the way around so you have 8 large arches<\/strong> bridging the petals. (If ch-7 feels too long\/short for your yarn, use ch-6 or ch-8 \u2014 visual spacing is the key.)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
                      \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

                      Round 6 \u2014 decorative ribs inside each arch<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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                      1. Decorate each large arch so it looks layered: sl st into arch base \u2192 ch 3 \u2192 dc into top of first tr of the anchor \u2192 ch 1 \u2192 dc into top of middle tr \u2192 ch 1 \u2192 dc into top of last tr \u2192 ch 3 \u2192 sl st into same arch base.<\/em><\/li>\n\n\n\n
                      2. Repeat for all 8 arches. This gives each arch three thin vertical ribs (you can substitute 3 dc separated by ch-1<\/strong> if you prefer a simpler stitch).<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                        Round 7 \u2014 corner loops: turning the circle into a square<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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                        1. Mark four quarter points (every 2 petals = 90\u00b0 apart). These will be the corners.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                        2. Rejoin at a corner marker. Work: (sc across side until corner, then ch 6 to form a corner loop, sc into next side anchor)<\/strong> and continue along that side making (sc, ch 4, sc)<\/strong> repeats across the side until the next corner.\n
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                          • Concretely: for each side between corners, distribute sc<\/strong> stitches and short ch-4 side loops so the motif becomes a four-sided shape with distinct corner loops (ch-6) at the corners.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                          • Repeat for all 4 sides, join with sl st and fasten off.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
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                            Tip: count stitches per side as you go so adjacent motifs will match when joining (e.g., 12 sc + 3 side ch-4 loops per side).<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

                            Round 8 \u2014 outer scallop & picot edge (finish)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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                            1. Rejoin and work a pretty scallop edge: sc 3 across an outer bump, (pic: ch 3, sl st into same st), sc 4 across next stretch<\/em> \u2014 adjust counts so the edge lies flat.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                            2. Place picots at regular intervals (every scallop or every other scallop depending on look). Join, fasten off, and weave in ends.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
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                              Blocking & shaping<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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                              • Pin motif to blocking board into a square: pull corner loops outward to form sharp corners and pin picots to make the scallop crisp. Spray with water or steam lightly and let dry. Blocking is essential<\/strong> to make square blocks that join cleanly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
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                                \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

                                Joining motifs (two recommended methods)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

                                1) Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) \u2014 neat & fast<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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                                • Make one motif completely. For each new motif, work up through Round 7<\/strong>. When you work Round 8<\/strong> (outer scallop) on the new motif, replace the sl st or the stitch at each join point with a sl st into the corresponding stitch of the finished neighbor<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                • Attach at side ch-4 loops and at corner ch-6 loops so joins are strong and flat. This produces an almost invisible seam and saves sewing.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                                  2) Sew-after (blocking + sewing)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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                                  • Make all motifs, block them, pin into the final layout. Use a tapestry needle and matching yarn to mattress-stitch or whipstitch through the outer sc round or side loops. This gives adjustability for placement.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
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                                    Suggested layouts \/ projects<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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                                    • Blanket \/ throw:<\/strong> join motifs edge-to-edge in a grid; add a wide scallop border.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                    • Table runner:<\/strong> join narrow rows (e.g., 2 motifs wide \u00d7 N long) and add a decorative edge.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                    • Blouse \/ vest:<\/strong> join into front and back panels; leave neckline & armholes unjoined; add a sc or picot neckline finish.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                    • Shawl:<\/strong> make rectangular or triangular arrangements \u2014 for triangle, build rows 1,2,3\u2026 or trim motifs at edges for a smoother slope.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
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                                      \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

                                      Troubleshooting & tips<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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                                      • If motif cups<\/strong> (edges pull up): try a larger hook<\/strong> or loosen tension on petal rounds\/arches.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                      • If motif ruffles\/waves<\/strong>: shorten arch chains (e.g., ch-6 instead of ch-7) or remove a couple sc from the base round.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                      • If joins gap<\/strong>: add an extra sl st at join points or block motifs more firmly before joining.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                      • To scale motif<\/strong>: use thicker yarn\/larger hook for bigger blocks, or finer yarn\/smaller hook for smaller, lacy blocks.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
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                                        Quick variations<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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                                        • Two-color:<\/strong> change color after Round 3 (petals) so petals contrast with the frame.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                        • Bigger petals:<\/strong> increase 7 dc \u2192 9 dc in Round 3.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                        • Simplified beginner version:<\/strong> replace Round 5\/6 arches with simple ch-5 loops and 3 dc across each loop.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                                          VIDEO: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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