{"id":9835,"date":"2025-11-12T11:50:35","date_gmt":"2025-11-12T11:50:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/?p=9835"},"modified":"2025-11-12T11:50:36","modified_gmt":"2025-11-12T11:50:36","slug":"elegant-bouquets-poncho-shawl-making-without-plucking-velvet-flower-model-%e2%9c%94%ef%b8%8fcrochet-design-shawl-making%e2%9c%94%ef%b8%8f","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/?p=9835","title":{"rendered":"ELEGANT BOUQUETS, PONCHO SHAWL MAKING WITHOUT Plucking VELVET FLOWER MODEL \u2714\ufe0fCROCHET DESIGN SHAWL MAKING\u2714\ufe0f"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Velvet-Flower Crochet \u2014 Step-by-Step Tutorial<\/h1>\n\n\n\n

Skill: intermediate (repeats, working in rounds, joining motifs)
Finished motif: approx 10\u201312 cm<\/strong> (4\u20134.7″) depending on yarn & hook.
Project idea: make many motifs, join into a blouse, poncho, or shawl (video shows all uses).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n

Materials<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
    \n
  • Yarn: velvet \/ chenille \/ plush yarn for the \u201ckadife\u201d look (or any bulky\/soft yarn for similar effect). For a lighter look use DK\/cotton.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Hook: one size recommended for your yarn \u2014 for velvet chenille usually 5.0\u20136.5 mm; adjust to match gauge.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Optional: small beads or decorative buttons for centers.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
    \n\n\n\n

    Abbreviations (US)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
      \n
    • ch = chain<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • sl st = slip stitch<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • sc = single crochet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • hdc = half double crochet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • dc = double crochet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • tr = treble crochet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • sp = space<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • st = stitch<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • sk = skip<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    • rep = repeat<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
      \n\n\n\n
      \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

      Pattern multiple & notes<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
        \n
      • Work motifs in rounds<\/strong> from center outward.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      • Motif has a beaded-petal \/ leaf look and is worked continuously<\/em> so you don\u2019t \u201ccut\u201d threads between petals (matches \u201ckoparmadan yap\u0131lan\u201d \u2014 without tearing\/cutting).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      • Make a test motif and block lightly (if yarn allows) to measure motif size \u2014 use this to plan number of motifs needed for your garment.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
        \n\n\n\n

        MOTIF \u2014 Velvet Flower (full written rounds)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n
        \n

        The motif below is an accurate, practical recreation of the shape shown in the video: a beaded center, petal rounds, and outer lace edging suitable for joining.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

        Round 1 \u2014 center ring<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
          \n
        1. Make a magic ring (or ch 4 and join as ring).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        2. ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc<\/strong> into ring. (12 dc total including ch-3)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        3. Tighten ring, join with sl st to top of ch-3.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

          Round 2 \u2014 small picot ring (optional sparkle)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
            \n
          1. ch 1, sc in next st, ch 3 (picot loop)<\/em> \u2014 repeat around placing sc between picot loops so you have 12 sc + 12 ch-3 loops.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
          2. Join with sl st to first sc.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

            (If you don\u2019t want picot loops, do plain sc around.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

            Round 3 \u2014 first petal anchors<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
              \n
            1. ch 1, sc in next st, ch 4<\/em> around (work sc into each dc from Round 1 and create ch-4 loops between) \u2014 you will have 12 ch-4 loops.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
            2. Join with sl st.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

              These ch-4 loops are the anchors<\/strong> for the petals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

              Round 4 \u2014 petal fans (short fan base)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                \n
              1. Into each ch-4 loop work:<\/em> (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc)<\/strong> all into same loop \u2014 a tapered fan (small petal).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
              2. Repeat into every loop around (12 petals).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
              3. Join with sl st to first sc.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                Round 5 \u2014 petal height & texture (build velvet look)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                  \n
                1. ch 2 (counts as hdc), turn slightly if needed so petals stand up.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                2. Working around each petal\u2019s outer edge: sc in outermost sc of petal, ch 2, dc in center dc of petal (the highest point), ch 2, sc in other outer sc<\/em> \u2014 this outlines and raises the petal to give a 3-D velvet petal.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                3. Repeat for each petal. Join.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                  Round 6 \u2014 leaf connectors (make lace ring)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                    \n
                  1. ch 1. sc in top of petal base, ch 5 (creates airy loop), sc in next petal base<\/em> \u2014 repeat around to create long arch loops between petals (you should have 12 long arches). Join.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                    Round 7 \u2014 convert circle to square \/ larger motif (optional for blouse)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

                    If you want motifs to be easily joined as a geometric panel (square\/hexagon-ish), add an outer round that creates larger side shells \u2014 otherwise keep circular for a round flower panel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                      \n
                    1. Decide grouping (if you want to transform 12 petals into 4 sides, group every three petals as one side).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                    2. Work 3 dc<\/strong> into the first arch, then 3 dc<\/strong> into second arch, then into the third arch work (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc)<\/strong> to form a corner. Continue this 4 times around so every 3 arches becomes a side and the third is the corner. Join.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                      Round 8 \u2014 decorative outer shell \/ joining round<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                        \n
                      1. ch 1; sc evenly around the round and place 3 sc<\/strong> in each corner ch-3 space (if you made corners) \u2014 this evens the edge.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                      2. Final row: skip 2 sc, 5 dc in next sc (shell), skip 2 sc, sc in next sc<\/em> to make shells for a scalloped edge that looks finished and ready for join-as-you-go.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                        Fasten off and weave in ends.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                        \n\n\n\n
                        \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

                        Alternative: One-piece continuous petal method (no cutting)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

                        The video emphasizes koparmadan<\/em> (without cutting). If you want to absolutely avoid cutting yarn between motifs, work motifs continuously on same skein until you need to change color: carry yarn along WS and hide it under petals as you go; or better, cut once at end of motif and attach new yarn for next motif. The pattern above is written with normal fasten-offs \u2014 the petal shaping itself is continuous within the motif (no extra tails when making petals).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                        \n\n\n\n

                        Making a Blouse \/ Poncho \/ Shawl from motifs<\/h1>\n\n\n\n

                        How many motifs?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                          \n
                        • Make a test motif, block it, measure width and height.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                        • Example (video style garment): blouse\/poncho built from motifs joined in rows \u2014 typical blouse front\/back uses 3 motifs across \u00d7 4\u20135 rows<\/strong> per side (adjust by size). A shawl may be 6\u20138 motifs across \u00d7 3\u20134 rows long.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                          Layout ideas<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                            \n
                          • Blouse: join motifs into rectangular panels for front, back and two small motifs for sleeves \/ shoulders. Seam shoulders and sides; add edging.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                          • Poncho: arrange motifs in a single rectangle, fold in half and seam one side leaving neck hole, or join into a circular yoke.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                          • Shawl: join motifs into a triangular or rectangular shape; add long scallop border.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                            Joining methods<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                              \n
                            1. Join-as-you-go (JAYG)<\/strong> \u2014 recommended for neat, lacy joins shown in video:\n
                                \n
                              • On the final outer round of a new motif, when you reach a point that will touch an existing motif, instead of working the full stitch, do: sc (or dc) into your motif, ch 1, sl st into the corresponding stitch\/space on the neighbor motif, ch 1<\/em>, then continue your round. This attaches motifs seamlessly. Use matching stitch counts so joins align.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                              • Sewing (invisible mattress stitch)<\/strong> \u2014 block motifs and sew through back loops only to reduce bulk.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                              • Slip-stitch join<\/strong> on RS for a flat, decorative seam.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                                Example join sequence (simple JAYG)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                                  \n
                                • Make first motif completely.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                • Make second motif up to the outer joining round.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                • When you reach the first touching point, align motifs and sl st into neighbor\u2019s corresponding space<\/em>, continue. Join one side completely; then flip and join next side, etc.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
                                  \n\n\n\n
                                  \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

                                  Edging & finishing<\/h1>\n\n\n\n
                                    \n
                                  • Once motifs are joined into your desired shape, add a unified border to smooth edges: 3 rounds recommended:\n
                                      \n
                                    1. Round 1: sc evenly around all outer edges (3 sc in corners)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                    2. Round 2: shell round: skip 2 sc, (5 dc) in next sc, skip 2, sc<\/em> repeat<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                    3. Round 3: picot or tiny shell finish: sc, ch3, sl st in same st<\/em> every few stitches for delicate points<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                    4. Weave in ends carefully; block final garment to shape petals and open lace.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
                                      \n\n\n\n

                                      Sizing guidelines (quick)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                        \n
                                      • Make motif size measurement (blocked) = M cm across.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                      • To make a small shrug\/blouse (XS\u2013S): front panel ~ 3 motifs across \u00d7 4 rows = width \u2248 3\u00d7M and height \u2248 4\u00d7M (adjust for overlap).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                      • For a poncho: single panel 6\u00d76 motifs folded and seamed as desired.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                      • For shawl: 6\u00d73 or larger depending on desired coverage.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
                                        \n\n\n\n

                                        Tips & troubleshooting<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                          \n
                                        • Petals floppy?<\/strong> Try a smaller hook or add one more outline round to stabilize petals. Plush yarn can be stretchy; blocking helps.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                        • Motifs vary in size:<\/strong> always block each motif to final size before joining. If motif sizes still vary, adjust outer rounds to even them (add an extra sc round where needed).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                        • Joins not lining up?<\/strong> Make sure you keep consistent stitch counts on the outer joining round and join in the same corresponding spaces on adjacent motifs. Use stitch markers to mark contact points.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                        • Avoid fuzz matting:<\/strong> velvet\/chenille yarn shows marks from tension; be gentle when blocking and avoid heavy steam \u2014 pin and air-dry if possible.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
                                          \n\n\n\n
                                          \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

                                          Variations & embellishments<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                            \n
                                          • Add a small bead or button in the center of each flower for sparkle.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                          • Make alternating motifs in two colors (flower center in contrast color, petals in main color).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                          • Work outer rounds in a contrasting color to create a lace grid effect.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                          • For cooler weather, make motifs with wool blends rather than chenille.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
                                            \n\n\n\n

                                            Quick Summary \/ Cheat-sheet<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
                                              \n
                                            1. Round 1: magic ring \u2192 12 dc.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                            2. Round 2: sc + ch loops (12).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                            3. Round 4: petal fans into loops: (sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                            4. Round 5: outline petals to raise them.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                            5. Round 6: long arches (ch-5 \/ ch-4) between petals.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                            6. Round 7\u20138: (optional) convert to square and make scalloped outer joining round.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                                            7. Make N motifs, block, join with JAYG or sew, add border, finish.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

                                              VIDEO: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

                                              \n