{"id":9981,"date":"2025-11-18T11:30:23","date_gmt":"2025-11-18T11:30:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/?p=9981"},"modified":"2025-11-18T11:30:24","modified_gmt":"2025-11-18T11:30:24","slug":"hearth-timber-medallion-quilt","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/?p=9981","title":{"rendered":"Hearth &amp; Timber Medallion Quilt"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Overview &amp; assumptions<\/h1>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Finished quilt size:<\/strong> <strong>60&#8243; \u00d7 60&#8243; (square)<\/strong> \u2014 a good lap\/throw size that matches the proportions of the photo.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Block modular system:<\/strong> quilt = 5 \u00d7 5 grid of <strong>12&#8243; finished blocks<\/strong> (5 \u00d7 12 = 60&#8243;). Center block is a medallion star, the four corners are leaf\/star corner blocks, and the remaining 20 are log-cabin \/ pieced frame blocks that create the octagon\/ring look.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Seam allowance:<\/strong> <strong>\u00bc&#8221;<\/strong> throughout. When I give cut sizes for squares or strips, those are the sizes you cut (i.e., include seam allowance in the numbers provided).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>If you want a different finished size, I include notes at the end for scaling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Materials (for 60&#8243; \u00d7 60&#8243;)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n<p>Note: I describe fabric roles the way the quilt in the photo looks \u2014 lots of cream\/ivory background, mixed reds &amp; greens for prints, and a bold red floral border.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Background \/ neutral (cream\/ivory)<\/strong> \u2014 <strong>2\u00bd yards<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Scrappy prints (reds, greens, browns) \u2014 assorted<\/strong> \u2014 <strong>3 yards total<\/strong> (a fat-quarter bundle of 12\u201320 prints would be ideal)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Outer border fabric (red floral used in your photo)<\/strong> \u2014 <strong>1\u00bd yards<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Backing fabric<\/strong> \u2014 <strong>3\u00bd yards<\/strong> (enough to make a 62&#8243; \u00d7 62&#8243; backing, or join two widths)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Binding<\/strong> \u2014 <strong>\u00be yard<\/strong> (or scrap strips 2\u00bd&#8221; \u00d7 width-of-fabric)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Batting<\/strong> \u2014 <strong>at least 62&#8243; \u00d7 62&#8243;<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Thread, pins, rotary cutter, rulers, pencil, iron<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Quick math check (how I arrived at yardage)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n<p>(Showing step-by-step math so it\u2019s clear.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Finished area = 60 in \u00d7 60 in = 3600 square inches.\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>60 \u00d7 60 = 3600.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Standard fabric usable area per yard (approx) = 36 in (width across) \u00d7 42 in (usable length) = 1512 sq in.\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>36 \u00d7 42 = 1512.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Background estimated coverage \u2248 55% of quilt \u2192 0.55 \u00d7 3600 = 1980 sq in.\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>0.55 \u00d7 3600 = 1980.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>1980 \u00f7 1512 \u2248 1.31 yards \u2192 round up to <strong>1.5\u20132.5 yards<\/strong> to allow piecing and scraps; I recommend <strong>2\u00bd yards<\/strong> to be safe (lots of background in sashing and block centers).<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p>(So the final yardages above are conservative and include allowances for piecing, borders, and matching.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Cutting plan (based on 12&#8243; finished blocks)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Block grid:<\/strong> 5 \u00d7 5 = 25 blocks (center medallion + 4 corners + 20 pieced blocks)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Cutting basics &amp; units<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>All block finished size:<\/strong> <strong>12&#8243; finished<\/strong> \u2192 cut main unit pieces mostly to <strong>12\u00bd&#8221;<\/strong> when squares are used (12&#8243; + \u00bc&#8221; left seam + \u00bc&#8221; right seam = 12\u00bd&#8221;).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>When cutting strips for log-cabin-style blocks, I\u2019ll list the strip widths to cut.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Cutting list (concrete pieces)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Background \/ neutral (cream \/ ivory)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>25 squares 12\u00bd&#8221; \u00d7 12\u00bd&#8221;<\/strong> for block backgrounds and centers (this is a simplification \u2014 some blocks use multiple background pieces). Cutting 25 such squares gives you options. (You can subcut strips from these.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Additional<\/strong> for sashing\/pieces: cut <strong>6 strips 2\u00bd&#8221; \u00d7 WOF<\/strong> (width of fabric) to use for faint sashing pieces \/ partial background \u2014 the photos show mostly block-to-block so you may not need wide sashing.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Binding inner<\/strong> if required: use scraps.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Scrappy prints (reds\/greens\/browns)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>For log-cabin-style blocks, cut strips:\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Strip widths (cut):<\/strong> 1\u00bd&#8221;, 2&#8243;, 2\u00bd&#8221;, 3&#8243;, 3\u00bd&#8221; \u2014 approximate assortment. Cut multiple strips at each width from different prints.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Aim for at least <strong>(a)<\/strong> 40 strips in the 1\u00bd&#8221;-2&#8243; range and <strong>(b)<\/strong> 30 strips in the 2\u00bd&#8221;-3\u00bd&#8221; range across your scrappy stash. This gives strong scrappy variety.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>For border and accent pieces, set aside the <strong>red floral<\/strong>: cut border pieces below.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Borders<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Inner narrow border (optional)<\/strong>: if you want a narrow cream or green inner border, cut <strong>4 strips 1\u00bd&#8221; \u00d7 WOF<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Outer red floral border<\/strong> (as in photo): final border width in photo looks approx 6&#8243; finished. For a 6&#8243; finished border, you cut <strong>7&#8243; strips<\/strong> (6&#8243; finished + \u00bd&#8221; seam both sides = 7&#8243;).\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Need two horizontal border strips length = 60&#8243; + 2 \u00d7 (7&#8243; seam allowances for mitering) \u2248 cut 2 strips <strong>7&#8243; \u00d7 64&#8243;<\/strong> (we\u2019ll piece to length; in practice cut 7&#8243; \u00d7 WOF pieces and join).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Need two vertical border strips likewise. From 1\u00bd yards you will get enough width-wise (1\u00bd yds = 54&#8243; \u2014 join pieces). So <strong>1\u00bd yards<\/strong> is workable.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Binding<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>For 2\u00bc&#8221; finished binding, cut <strong>7 strips 2\u00bd&#8221; \u00d7 WOF<\/strong> (typical rule for 60&#8243; quilt).\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Why 7? Standard: perimeter \u2248 4 \u00d7 60 = 240&#8243; \u2192 binding strip length per WOF \u2248 40&#8243; (usable) so 6 strips gives ~240&#8243;, but 7 gives comfortable extra.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Block constructions (step-by-step)<\/h1>\n\n\n\n<p>I\u2019ll describe <strong>three<\/strong> block types (12&#8243; finished each):<br>A. <strong>Center Star Medallion (12&#8243; finished)<\/strong><br>B. <strong>Corner Maple\/Leaf Block (12&#8243; finished)<\/strong> \u2014 stylized leaf\/star corner like the photo<br>C. <strong>Log-cabin\u2013style Frame Block (12&#8243; finished)<\/strong> \u2014 scrappy strips forming L-shaped frames<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Use chain piecing where possible.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">A \u2014 Center Star Medallion (12&#8243; finished)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>This is a small star with many small half-square triangles. I\u2019ll create a <strong>8-pointed star<\/strong> that finishes at 12&#8243;.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Pieces &amp; cutting<\/strong>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Cut <strong>one cream center square<\/strong>: <strong>3\u00bd&#8221; \u00d7 3\u00bd&#8221;<\/strong> (finished 3&#8243; center after seams).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Cut <strong>8 HST pairs<\/strong> to make the star points: cut <strong>4 squares<\/strong> each of two contrasting colors (red\/green) at <strong>3\u00bc&#8221; \u00d7 3\u00bc&#8221;<\/strong> to make 8 HST after trimming to 2\u00bd&#8221; finished? To keep numbers clean, use this approach:<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Step-by-step:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>For each star point, pair a 3\u00bc&#8221; red square with a 3\u00bc&#8221; cream square. Draw diagonal on lighter square, sew \u00bc&#8221; each side, cut on diagonal \u2192 two HSTs about 2\u00be&#8221; raw; trim to <strong>2\u00bd&#8221; finished<\/strong>. Repeat to make <strong>8 trimmed HSTs<\/strong>.\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Arithmetic: 3\u00bc&#8221; = 3.25&#8243;; no heavy math needed beyond measuring squares.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Arrange the HSTs around the center so the star points radiate. Add small background corner squares as necessary to bring the block to <strong>12\u00bd&#8221; raw<\/strong>. Use a layout: center 3\u00bd&#8221; + two HST rows (each 2\u00bd&#8221; finished) + seam allowances = 12&#8243;.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p>Assembly:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Make four units of HST pairs into flying geese-like clusters, join around center square. Press seams open or to the side for a flat top. Square block to <strong>12\u00bd&#8221;<\/strong> raw (12&#8243; finished).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>(If you want a printable template, I can draw one next.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">B \u2014 Corner Leaf \/ Maple-Style Block (12&#8243; finished)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>This block mimics the leafy corner motifs in the photo (looks like a maple-ish leaf with multiple small triangles).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Simpler construction:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Make a <strong>4-patch pieced leaf<\/strong> built from HSTs and small squares.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Cutting:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Background squares: four <strong>4\u00bd&#8221; \u00d7 4\u00bd&#8221;<\/strong> (these yield two HSTs each when paired)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Leaf print squares: four <strong>4\u00bd&#8221; \u00d7 4\u00bd&#8221;<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Smaller accent triangles: cut 2&#8243; squares for small HSTs if needed<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Assemble two HST units (pair leaf + background 4\u00bd&#8221; squares, sew diagonally, cut, press) \u2192 trim to 4&#8243; finished subunits. Use these to assemble the leaf shape (arranged as two 4&#8243; units plus corner 4&#8243; squares), giving a 12&#8243; block.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Assembly:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Make HSTs from the 4\u00bd&#8221; pairs; trim to 4&#8243; finished.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Arrange HSTs so points form a leaf shape. Add background 4&#8243; squares to corners. Join subunits into rows, then join rows into the 12&#8243; block.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Square to <strong>12\u00bd&#8221; raw<\/strong>.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">C \u2014 Log-cabin\u2013style Frame Block (12&#8243; finished)<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>This is the main repeated block that forms the octagon\/ring. The block is an improvisational log cabin where the \u201clight\u201d is cream and the \u201clogs\u201d are scrappy reds\/greens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Construction (clean, repeatable method):<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Start with a center 2\u00bd&#8221; square (cream or small print).<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Sew 2\u00bd&#8221; strips<\/strong> around the center in this order: right, top, left, bottom; increase strip widths as you like (typically keep them 2\u00bd&#8221; for a fairly geometric look). After four rounds you\u2019ll have a roughly 12&#8243; block.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Press after each addition.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Trim to <strong>12\u00bd&#8221;<\/strong> raw square.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p>Cutting for many blocks:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Cut many strips <strong>2\u00bd&#8221; wide<\/strong> by varying lengths (use long strips and subcut needed lengths per block).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Tip: For the blocks that look like corner L-shapes in the photo, start the log cabin center off-center (not centered) so each block has a pronounced corner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Assembling the quilt top<\/h1>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Arrange blocks in a 5 \u00d7 5 layout: center medallion in the middle, leaf blocks in four corners, log-cabin blocks filling the rest. Lay out on the floor or a design wall until you like the balance of reds\/greens\/scrappy prints.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Sew blocks into rows: sew 5 blocks together for each row (use chain piecing). Press seams consistently (alternate pressing direction each row so seams nest).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Join the 5 rows to make the 60\u00bd&#8221; raw top (60&#8243; finished). If you added an inner narrow border, attach it now.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Attach the outer red floral border: measure the quilt center (should be ~60\u00bd&#8221; raw). Cut border strips <strong>7&#8243; wide<\/strong> (as noted) and piece to length as needed. Mitered corners optional \u2014 for mitering, cut border strips a bit longer, attach to opposite sides first, press, then add the remaining two sides and miter at corners.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Quilting design<\/h1>\n\n\n\n<p>The photo shows an all-over meandering or pebble quilting. Options:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Echoed meander \/ stipple<\/strong> in the background and inside the cream areas to emphasize the medallion.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Feathered or echo quilting<\/strong> around the center star to make it pop.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Quilting density: 10\u201312 spi (stitches per inch) on background is fine for batting thickness.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>If you quilt by machine at home:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Baste the sandwich (batting, backing right side down, top right side up) using safety pins every 4\u20136&#8243;.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Start quilting from the center outward to avoid puckers.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Use a walking foot for an all-over meander or a free-motion foot for stippling.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Binding &amp; finishing<\/h1>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Square the quilt, trim excess batting\/backing so all layers are even.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Prepare binding strips: strip full width 2\u00bd&#8221; \u00d7 WOF, join into one continuous strip.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Attach binding to front with \u00bc&#8221; seam, fold to back, hand-stitch or machine stitch on back.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Label your quilt and enjoy!<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Tips &amp; troubleshooting<\/h1>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Scrappy planning:<\/strong> spread reds\/greens evenly so one color doesn\u2019t dominate a whole side.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Chain piecing<\/strong> saves time with many small HSTs or log-cabin strips.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Pressing:<\/strong> press seams toward dark fabrics where possible to reduce shadow through light fabrics.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>If your center block looks small\/large:<\/strong> you can make the center star block larger (e.g., 16&#8243; finished) and adjust surrounding blocks, but then you\u2019ll need to recalculate borders.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Overview &amp; assumptions If you want a different finished size, I include notes at the end for scaling. Materials (for 60&#8243; \u00d7 60&#8243;) Note: I &hellip; <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":9982,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9981","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-quilt"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v20.12 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Hearth &amp; Timber Medallion Quilt - sntnews3<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/sntnews3.com\/?p=9981\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Hearth &amp; Timber Medallion Quilt - sntnews3\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Overview &amp; assumptions If you want a different finished size, I include notes at the end for scaling. 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