by Materials & finished size
- Yarn: sport / DK (cotton for crisp lace; cotton-blend or acrylic for softer drape)
- Hook: 3.0–4.5 mm (adjust to reach desired finished size)
- Notions: tapestry needle, blocking pins/mat, scissors, stitch marker (optional)
- Finished motif (blocked): ≈ 9–13 cm / 3.5–5 in (varies with yarn & hook)
Abbreviations (US)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble (triple) crochet
- pic = picot (ch 3, sl st into same st)
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rep = repeat
Pattern overview (what it does)
Worked from the center out: small center → chain loops → puffy petals → tidy sc round → lacy arches → decorative ribs → optional side/corner loops to square the motif → scalloped picot outer edge (used for Join-As-You-Go).
Each round ends with a short Check: so you can confirm counts.
Round-by-round (work rounds joined with sl st unless noted)
Round 1 — Center (magic ring)
- Make a magic ring. ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 15 dc into ring. (ch-3 + 15 dc = 16 dc total.)
- Pull ring closed; sl st to top of ch-3 to join.
Check: 16 dc.
Round 2 — Loop foundation (petal scaffolding)
- ch 4, skip next dc, sc in next dc — repeat around.
→ You will have 8 ch-4 loops separated by sc. Join with sl st.
Check: 8 loop spaces.
Round 3 — Puffy petals (8 petals)
- In each ch-4 loop work all into same loop: (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc).
- Sl st into next ch-4 loop and repeat for all 8 loops. Join.
Check: 8 rounded petals (reduce 7 dc → 5 dc for smaller petals).
Round 4 — Tidy sc round
- Rejoin between petals. Work sc evenly around petal bases to flatten and stabilize the motif — distribute roughly 9–12 sc per petal area (adjust so motif lies flat).
- Join with sl st.
Check: outer boundary is smooth (not cupped or ruffled).
Round 5 — Lacy chain arches (frame)
- From a petal tip: sl st to tip → ch 7 → anchor into the sc round between the next petals with (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr) worked into that sc/space → sl st back to petal tip.
- Repeat around to create 8 arches. (If ch-7 looks long/short with your yarn/hook, use ch-6 or ch-8.) Join.
Check: 8 evenly spaced arches.
Round 6 — Decorative ribs inside arches
- Into each ch-arch work: sl st into arch base → ch 3 → dc into top of first tr → ch 1 → dc into top of middle tr → ch 1 → dc into top of last tr → ch 3 → sl st into arch base.
- Simpler: 3 dc separated by ch-1 across each arch.
- Repeat for all arches and join.
Check: every arch shows 3 inner ribs (nice layered texture).
Round 7 — Convert circle → square (side loops & corner loops) — optional but recommended
- Mark four quarter points (every 2 petals = 90° apart). Rejoin at a quarter marker.
- Work along each side between corners using identical counts. Example starter layout (adjust for your motif size):
sc 10, (sc, ch 4, sc) × 3 (side loops), sc 10 → ch 6 (corner loop).
Important: use the exact same numbers on all four sides so motifs match when joined. - Repeat for all sides. Join and fasten off (or continue).
Check: motif now has 4 ch-6 corner loops and evenly spaced side loops — it blocks into a square.
Round 8 — Scalloped picot outer edge (finish & JAYG round)
- Rejoin and work the scalloped edge across side loops: e.g. sc 3, (pic: ch 3, sl st into same st), sc 4. Adjust sc counts so the scallop sits flat across each side element.
- Place picots regularly for the dotted/shell look. This is the round you’ll use for Join-As-You-Go: when a new motif meets a finished neighbour, replace that picot/sl st with sl st into the corresponding stitch/picot of the finished motif to join.
- Join, fasten off and weave in ends.
Check: scallops/picots even; motif lies flat after blocking.
Blocking & finishing
- Block every motif pinned to a square (if Round 7 used). Pull corner loops outward for crisp corners; pin every picot/scallop peak. Mist lightly and allow to dry fully. Blocking opens the lace and makes JAYG joins neat.
- For table pieces lightly starch after blocking; for wearables keep soft.
Joining methods
Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) — recommended
- Make the first motif completely. For each new motif work through Round 7; on Round 8, whenever your scallop meets a finished neighbour, sl st into the corresponding stitch/picot of the finished motif instead of making the standalone picot. Continue joining side by side. JAYG yields flat, tidy seams and minimal sewing.
Sew-after
- Make & block all motifs. Lay out the design and sew with tapestry needle & matching yarn (mattress stitch or whipstitch) through the outer sc round or side loops. This allows rearranging before final joining.
Troubleshooting & quick fixes
- Motif cups (edges pull up): loosen tension in petal/arch rounds or go up 0.5 mm hook; block strongly.
- Motif ripples/waves: shorten arch chains (ch-7 → ch-6) or reduce sc count in Round 4.
- Joins gape: make join sl sts a touch firmer or add one extra sl st at join points; block motifs before joining.
- Sides mismatch when joining: ensure Round 7 side sc/loop counts are identical on every motif — that’s the most common alignment problem.
Quick variations & ideas
- Two-colour motif: change color after Round 3 (petals) so the flower pops vs frame.
- Smaller motif: use finer yarn/smaller hook or change petal 7 dc → 5 dc.
- Bigger motif: thicker yarn or increase petal dcs (7 → 9) and arch chains (ch-8/9) — adjust Round 7 counts proportionally.
- Simpler beginner version: replace Round 5–6 arches & ribs with ch-5 loops and 3 dc in each loop for easier lace.
- Projects: runners (1×N), shawls (6×10 or custom), one-piece JAYG blouse/tunic, cushion covers (3×3 or 4×4 motifs).
VIDEO:
