by Materials & finished size
- Yarn: sport / DK (cotton for crisp lace; cotton-blend or acrylic for drapier garments)
- Hook: 3.0–4.5 mm (choose to reach desired motif size)
- Notions: tapestry needle, blocking pins/mat or towel, scissors, stitch marker (optional)
- Finished motif (blocked): ≈ 9–13 cm / 3.5–5 in (varies with yarn & hook)
Abbreviations (US)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- pic = picot (ch 3, sl st into same st)
- sp = space
- rep = repeat
Pattern concept (short)
Worked from the centre out: a neat centre → chain-loop scaffold → puff/petal clusters → tidy sc round → lacy chain arches anchored with post clusters → decorative ribs → optional side & corner loops to square the motif → scalloped picot outer round (used for Join-As-You-Go).
After each major round I give a quick check so you can confirm counts.
Round-by-round (work rounds joined with sl st)
Round 1 — centre (magic ring)
- Make a magic ring. ch 3 (counts as dc), work 15 dc into ring. (ch-3 + 15 dc = 16 dc.)
- Pull ring closed, sl st to top of ch-3 to join.
Check: 16 dc.
Round 2 — loop foundation (petal scaffolding)
- ch 4, skip next dc, sc in next dc — repeat around.
→ You’ll have 8 ch-4 loops separated by 8 sc. Join with sl st.
Check: 8 ch-4 spaces.
Round 3 — puffy petals (8 petals)
- In each ch-4 loop work (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc) — all into the same loop (one cluster = one petal).
- Sl st to next ch-4 loop and repeat for all 8. Join.
Check: 8 raised petals.
Variation: use 5 dc instead of 7 dc for smaller petals.
Round 4 — tidy sc round (flatten)
- Rejoin between petals. Work sc evenly around the petal bases to flatten the motif — distribute about 9–12 sc per petal area (adjust to keep the round flat).
- Join with sl st.
Check: motif edge is smooth (not cupped or ruffled).
Round 5 — tall lacy arches (frame)
- From a petal tip: sl st to tip → ch 7 → anchor into the sc round between the next petals with (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr) worked into that sc/space → sl st back to petal tip.
- Repeat around to form 8 tall arches. (If ch-7 looks too long/short with your yarn/hook, change to ch-6 or ch-8.) Join.
Check: 8 arches evenly spaced.
Round 6 — ribs inside arches (decoration)
- Into each ch-arch work: sl st to arch base → ch 3 → dc into top of first tr → ch 1 → dc into top of middle tr → ch 1 → dc into top of last tr → ch 3 → sl st into arch base.
- Simpler alt: 3 dc separated by ch-1 across each arch.
- Repeat for all arches and join.
Check: each arch has 3 inner ribs for texture.
Round 7 — convert circle → square (side & corner loops) — recommended
(Do this round if you plan to join tiles in a grid for blouse/runner/shawl.)
- Mark four quarter points (every 2 petals, roughly 90° apart). Rejoin at a quarter marker.
- Work each side between corners using an identical distribution so every side matches. Example (adjust to motif size):
sc 10, (sc, ch 4, sc) × 3 (side loops), sc 10 → ch 6 (corner loop).
Important: whatever numbers you choose — use the same on all 4 sides so tiles line up. - Repeat for all sides, join.
Check: motif now has 4 ch-6 corner loops and matching side loops — it blocks into a square.
Round 8 — scalloped picot outer edge (finish & JAYG round)
- Rejoin and work the outer scallop across the side loops: for example sc 3, (pic: ch 3 + sl st into same st), sc 4 — adjust sc counts so each scallop sits flat.
- This round is ideal for Join-As-You-Go: when your new motif meets a finished neighbour replace that picot/sl st with sl st into the corresponding stitch/picot of the finished motif to attach.
- Join, fasten off and weave in ends.
Check: scallops and picots even; motif lies flat after blocking.
Blocking & finishing
- Pin motif to blocking board/towel into a square (if Round 7 used). Pull corner ch-6 loops outward and pin scallop/picot peaks. Mist with water or steam lightly and allow to dry fully. Blocking is essential for lace clarity and accurate joins.
- For table pieces lightly starch after blocking if you want a crisp finish.
Joining methods
Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) — recommended
- Crochet the first motif completely. For each new motif work through Round 7 and begin Round 8. When you reach a scallop that meets a finished neighbour, sl st into the corresponding stitch/picot of the finished motif instead of making the picot. Join sides and corners as you build rows. This yields flat, neat seams without sewing.
Sew-after
- Make & block all motifs. Layout and sew with tapestry needle & matching yarn (mattress stitch or whipstitch) through the outer sc round or side loops. Good if you want to rearrange before final joining.
Measuring & layout (quick)
- Block one motif and measure its width M.
- For a blouse: motifs across (half-chest) ≈
round((chest/2) ÷ M). Rows down =round(desired length ÷ M).
If you want, tell me M and finished dimensions and I’ll compute motif counts now.
Troubleshooting & tips
- Motif cups (edges pull up): shorten arch chain (ch-7 → ch-6) or use slightly larger hook for petals/arches; block firmly.
- Motif ripples/waves: reduce sc in Round 4 or shorten arch chains.
- Joints gape: make join sl sts a touch firmer or add an extra sl st at join points while JAYG; blocking helps.
- Tiles don’t line up: ensure Round 7 side & loop counts are identical on every motif (this is the common cause).
Variations & quick ideas
- Smaller motif: use finer yarn & smaller hook or change petal 7 dc → 5 dc.
- Bolder motif: thicker yarn or increase petal dc count (7 → 9) and arch chain (ch-8/9), then scale Round 7 counts proportionally.
- Two-colour: work center/petals in Color A, switch to Color B for arches & square conversion.
- Simpler beginner version: replace Rounds 5–6 (arches/ribs) with ch-5 loops and 3 dc across each loop for easier lace.
- Beaded edge: slide seed beads onto yarn and work them into picots for sparkle.
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