by 🌸 Gorgeous Flower Motif — Step-by-Step Tutorial
Finished size (blocked): about 8–11 cm (3–4.3 in) depending on yarn & hook
Suggested yarn: sport / DK or mercerized cotton for a crisp lace look
Suggested hook: 2.5–4.0 mm (match yarn label and desired drape)
Notions: yarn needle, scissors, blocking pins, stitch marker (optional)
Abbreviations
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet (US)
- hdc = half double crochet (US)
- dc = double crochet (US)
- tr = treble crochet (US)
- pic = picot (ch 3, sl st into base)
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rep = repeat
Pattern summary
Worked in rounds from center → petals → lacy arches → decorative outer edge. This pattern makes a flowery medallion with a delicate picot scallop. I give exact stitch counts so you can check your work at the end of each round.
Round-by-round instructions (exact)
Round 1 — neat center
- Make a magic ring (or ch 4 and join).
- ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 15 dc into the ring. (ch-3 + 15 dc = 16 dc total.)
- Pull ring closed, sl st to top of ch-3 to join. Check: you should have 16 dc.
Round 2 — loop foundation (petal bases)
- ch 4, skip next dc, sc in next dc — repeat around.
- Because we alternate skip/working over 16 dc, this makes 8 ch-4 loops and 8 sc between them.
- Join with sl st to first sc. Check: 8 ch-4 spaces.
Round 3 — puffy petals (8 petals)
- Work into each ch-4 loop: (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc) — all worked into the same ch-4 sp.
- That cluster = sc (1) + hdc (1) + dcĂ—7 (7) + hdc (1) + sc (1) = 11 stitches in the loop (all clustered).
- After each petal, sl st into next ch-4 loop and repeat. Do this for all 8 loops.
- Join with sl st. Check: you have 8 rounded petals.
Round 4 — tidy base round (evening)
- Rejoin at the base between any two petals. Work sc evenly around the petal bases to make the motif even and round. Aim for about 9–12 sc distributed across each petal area so the next rounds lie flat.
- Join with sl st. Check: the outer boundary should be a smooth circle (not wavy or cupped).
Round 5 — large lacy arches (frame)
- From a petal tip: sl st to outer tip → ch 7 → anchor the arch into the sc round between the next petals with (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr) worked into that sc or small space → sl st to next petal tip.*
- Repeat around to make 8 large arches. (If ch-7 feels long/short for your yarn, use ch-6 or ch-8 — visual spacing matters.)
- Join with sl st. Check: 8 evenly spaced arches bridging petals.
Round 6 — ribbing inside each arch (decorative fill)
- Into each ch-arch do: sl st into arch base → ch 3 → dc into top of first tr of the anchor → ch 1 → dc into top of center tr → ch 1 → dc into top of last tr → ch 3 → sl st to anchor point.
- Repeat for all 8 arches. This gives three slender ribs inside each arch; you may substitute “3 dc separated by ch-1” if preferred.
- Join with sl st. Check: each arch has 3 internal ribs and looks layered.
Round 7 — side loops and corner shaping (optional square-ish shaping)
(This round is optional — include if you plan to join motifs in a grid; it creates small side loops and stronger corner points.)
- Mark four quarter points (every 2 petals). Rejoin at a corner marker.
- Work along the side: sc across several stitches → ch 6 (corner loop) → sc into next anchor. Between corners make small side loops: sc, ch 4, sc repeated across each side so motifs will match when joined.
- Repeat for all four sides, join, and fasten off or continue. Check: you now have four corner loops that make the motif join neatly into a square grid.
Round 8 — outer scallop & picot finish
- Rejoin and work a decorative scallop with picots around the outer edge: sc 3 in a small curve, (pic: ch 3, sl st into same st), sc 4 across next stretch — adjust the sc counts so the scallop sits flat.
- Place picots at regular intervals (for the tiny dotted look). Join with sl st, fasten off, and weave in ends. Check: motif lies flat and picots are evenly spaced.
Blocking & finishing
- Block the motif: pin it to your desired size and shape, gently stretch petals and outer scallops, and pin picot points to be crisp. Lightly mist with water or steam and allow to dry fully. Blocking transforms the motif — don’t skip it.
How to join motifs
Two practical options:
1) Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) (recommended):
- Make the first motif completely. For each new motif, work up through Round 7. On Round 8 (outer edge), when you reach a point that meets an already finished motif, replace that outer sl st/picot step with a sl st into the corresponding stitch of the neighbor. Attach at side loops and corner loops for a flat, secure seam.
2) Sew-after:
- Make motifs, block them, pin into layout, then use a tapestry needle and yarn to whipstitch or mattress-stitch through outer sc round or side loops. This gives adjustability for placement.
Troubleshooting & quick tips
- If motif cups upward: try a larger hook or loosen tension on petal rounds/arches.
- If motif ruffles/waves: shorten arch chains (ch-6 instead of ch-7) or remove a few sc in Round 4.
- If joins gap: add an extra sl st at each join point or block more firmly before joining.
- To change size: use thicker yarn / larger hook for bigger motifs, or finer yarn / smaller hook for smaller motifs.
- For more drape (shawls/blouses): go up 0.5–1 mm hook size; for crisper lace (doilies/runners) use cotton and a smaller hook.
Quick variations
- Two-color: change color after Round 3 (petals) so petals contrast with the lace frame.
- Bigger flower: increase petal dc from 7 → 9 and lengthen arch chains by 1–2.
- Simpler beginner option: skip Round 6 ribs and replace Round 5 arches with ch-5 loops and 3 dc across each loop.
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