by 🌟 “Amazing Motif” — Step-by-step Tutorial
Finished (blocked) size: ~9–13 cm (3.5–5 in) depending on yarn & hook
Suggested yarn: sport / DK or mercerized cotton (cotton for crisp lace, softer yarn for drape)
Suggested hook: 2.5–4.5 mm (choose to get the pictured finished size)
Notions: tapestry needle, blocking pins, scissors, stitch marker (optional)
Abbreviations (US terms)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- pic = picot (ch 3, sl st into base)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sp = space
Pattern overview
Worked in rounds from the center out:
- tight center (dc round)
- chain loop bases for petals
- puffy petals (dc clusters)
- tidy sc round to even the base
- large chain arches with tall post clusters
- small ribs inside each arch for texture
- optional corner/side loops for easy joining (square-ish shaping)
- scalloped picot edge to finish
I include short checks after major rounds so you can confirm counts.
Round-by-round (exact & beginner-friendly)
Round 1 — center
- Make a magic ring (or ch 4, join).
- ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 15 dc into the ring. (ch-3 + 15 dc = 16 dc total).
- Pull ring closed, sl st to top of ch-3 to join. Check: 16 dc.
Round 2 — chain loop foundation (petal bases)
- ch 4, skip next dc, sc in next dc — repeat around.
- Result: 8 ch-4 spaces and 8 sc. Join with sl st to first sc. Check: 8 loops.
Round 3 — petals (puffy)
- In each ch-4 space work: (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc) — all into the same ch-4 sp.
- Cluster total per petal = 11 stitches worked into same space (but counts as one cluster).
- Make this cluster into each of the 8 loops. Join with sl st. Check: 8 petals.
Round 4 — tidy sc round
- Rejoin at base between petals. Work sc evenly around the petal bases to level the round. Aim for about 9–12 sc per petal area (distribute so the motif is flat).
- Join with sl st. Check: a smooth circular outer boundary (not cupped or ruffled).
Round 5 — large arches (lacy frame)
- From a petal tip: sl st to tip → ch 7 → anchor with cluster (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr) worked into the sc round between the next petals → sl st to next petal tip.
- Repeat to create 8 large arches around. (If ch-7 is too long visually, use ch-6 or ch-8.) Join with sl st. Check: 8 evenly spaced arches.
Round 6 — decorative ribs inside arches
- For each arch: sl st into arch base → ch 3 → dc into top of first tr of the anchor → ch 1 → dc into top of middle tr → ch 1 → dc into top of last tr → ch 3 → sl st into arch base.
- Repeat for all arches. This gives 3 thin ribs inside each arch. Join with sl st. Check: 3 ribs per arch, neat texture.
(If you prefer simpler: do 3 dc separated by ch-1 inside each arch.)
Round 7 — optional corner & side loops (for grid joining)
Include this round if you want motifs to join into a square/grid easily.
- Mark four quarter points (every two petals). Rejoin at a quarter marker.
- Work along one side: distribute sc stitches across the side, and make small side loops as sc, ch 4, sc repeated; at each corner make ch 6 (corner loop).
- Repeat for all sides to create four corner loops. Join and fasten off (or continue if you want to keep working). Check: corner loops at 4 points and evenly spaced side loops.
Aim to make the same number of sc/side loops on every side so joins match.
Round 8 — scalloped picot edge (finish)
- Rejoin and work a decorative scalloped edge with picots: sc 3, (pic: ch 3, sl st into same st), sc 4 across the next curve — adjust sc counts to keep the edge flat.
- Place picots at regular intervals for the dotted effect. Join with sl st, fasten off, and weave in ends. Check: even scallops and picots; motif lies flat.
Blocking & finishing
- Pin the motif to your desired size and shape (pull corner loops outward if used). Pin picots so they’re crisp. Mist with water or steam lightly and let dry completely. Blocking is essential for lace clarity and for accurate joining.
Joining methods
1) Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) — recommended
- Make first motif fully. For each new motif, work up through Round 7. On Round 8 (outer edge), when you reach a stitch that should meet a finished motif, replace that stitch/picot with a sl st into the corresponding stitch of the neighbor. Attach at side loops and corner loops for a flat join. This avoids sewing and is tidy.
2) Sew-after
- Make and block all motifs, lay out, then use tapestry needle and matching yarn to mattress-stitch or whipstitch through the outer sc round or side loops. Gives flexibility for layout changes.
Projects & layout ideas
- Blouse (one-piece, JAYG): build top rows first, leave center joins open to form neckline, continue adding rows downward and across to shape the back without seams. Use Round 7 corner loops to align motifs.
- Shawl (rect or triangle): rectangle: join motifs into strips; triangle: join rows 1,2,3… to expand from top point.
- Runner / tablecloth / blanket: join in grid; add wide scallop border after joining.
Troubleshooting
- Motif cups (pulls up): use a slightly larger hook or loosen tension on petals/arches.
- Motif ruffles: shorten arch chain (ch-6 instead of ch-7) or reduce sc count in Round 4.
- Joins gap: add an extra sl st at join points or block motifs more firmly before joining.
- If edges are uneven: count sc per side (Round 7) and adjust so all sides have the same number of side-loops/sc.
Quick variations
- Two-color: change color after Round 3 so petals contrast with the lace frame.
- Bigger motif: increase petal count (7 dc → 9 dc) or use thicker yarn/larger hook.
- Simpler beginner option: replace the tall post archwork with ch-5 loops and place 3 dc across each loop for an easier lacy look.
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