by Nice day!! Here’s a clear, step-by-step text tutorial inspired by “Wow❗️Look at this Beauty — Crochet Motif Look Blouse, Tunic Model” (Crochet with Nese). It’s written so you can make the decorative motif, join motifs into a one-piece blouse/tunic (join-as-you-go), and finish like the video’s elegant garment. I include exact stitch groupings, counts to check after each round, blocking, sizing guidance, and troubleshooting.
🌺 Motif → Blouse / Tunic — Step-by-Step Tutorial
Finished motif (blocked): ≈ 9–13 cm (3.5–5 in) depending on yarn & hook
Suggested yarn: Sport / DK (cotton or cotton blend for crisp lace; a softer blend for drapey wearable).
Suggested hook: 3.0–4.5 mm (choose to produce the size/drape you want).
Notions: tapestry needle, blocking pins/mat, scissors, stitch markers.
US crochet abbreviations used.
Abbreviations
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet (US)
- tr = treble crochet (US)
- pic = picot (ch 3, sl st into base)
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rep = repeat
Short pattern concept
Worked in rounds from the center outward:
- small neat center (dc round)
- chain loops to form petal bases
- puffy petal clusters
- tidy sc round to even the shape
- tall chain arches & post clusters (lacy frame)
- decorative ribs inside each arch
- optional side/corner loops to make the motif square/joinable
- scalloped picot outer edge (this round is used for JAYG joining)
Counts/checks are given so you can verify after each round.
Round-by-round motif
Round 1 — neat center
- Make a magic ring.
- ch 3 (counts as dc), work 15 dc into ring. (ch-3 + 15 dc = 16 dc total.)
- Pull ring closed, sl st to top of ch-3 to join.
Check: 16 dc.
Round 2 — loop foundation (petal bases)
- ch 4, skip next dc, sc in next dc — repeat around.
You’ll create 8 ch-4 loops and 8 sc anchors. Join with sl st.
Check: 8 ch-4 spaces.
Round 3 — puffy petals (8 petals)
- In each ch-4 space work: (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc) — all into the same ch-4 sp (one cluster = one petal).
- Sl st into next ch-4 space and repeat for all 8 petals. Join with sl st.
Check: 8 full, rounded petals.
(Variation: use 5 dc instead of 7 dc for a smaller petal.)
Round 4 — tidy sc round
- Rejoin between petals. Work sc evenly around the petal bases to make the motif round and flat — aim for ~9–12 sc distributed per petal area (adjust ±1–2).
- Join with sl st.
Check: round is smooth (not cupped or ruffled).
Round 5 — tall lacy arches (frame)
- From petal top: sl st to the outer tip → ch 7 → anchor into the sc round between the next petals with (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr) worked into that sc/space → sl st to next petal tip.
- Repeat around to form 8 large arches. (If ch-7 looks too long/short for your yarn or hook, use ch-6 or ch-8.) Join with sl st.
Check: 8 evenly spaced arches.
Round 6 — decorative ribs inside arches
- Into each ch-arch work: sl st into arch base → ch 3 → dc in top of first tr → ch 1 → dc in top of middle tr → ch 1 → dc in top of last tr → ch 3 → sl st into arch base.
- Repeat for all 8 arches and join. (Simpler alternative: 3 dc separated by ch-1 across each arch.)
Check: each arch has 3 inner ribs for texture.
Round 7 — side loops & corner shaping (optional but recommended)
(Do this round if you plan to join motifs in a grid for a blouse/tunic — it creates side & corner loops so motifs align neatly.)
- Mark four quarter points (every 2 petals). Rejoin at a quarter marker.
- Work along each side between corners using a consistent distribution such as: sc 10, (sc, ch 4, sc) × 3, sc 10 then ch 6 at the corner to make a corner loop.
- Important: use the same counts on each side so adjacent motifs will match when joining. Adjust the numbers (10 and 3 above) to suit your motif size — the key is consistency.
- Join and fasten off or continue to Round 8.
Check: 4 corner ch-6 loops and evenly spaced side loops.
Round 8 — scalloped picot edge (finishing & JAYG round)
- Rejoin and work an outer scallop: sc 3 across the small outer curve, (pic: ch 3, sl st into the same st), sc 4 — adjust counts per small curve so the edge lays flat.
- Place picots at regular intervals for the dotted/bobbly look. Join and fasten off. This round is normally used for Join-As-You-Go: when joining to a neighbor, replace the sl st/picot with sl st into the corresponding stitch or picot of the finished motif to attach.
Check: even scallops and picots; motif blocks flat.
Blocking & finishing
- Pin motif to blocking board/towel in the required shape (square if you used Round 7). Pull corner loops outward to form crisp corners and pin picots for sharp points. Mist lightly or steam; allow to dry fully. Blocking is essential — it opens the lace and makes the joins accurate.
Joining motifs — two methods
1) Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) — recommended for one-piece blouse/tunic
- Make the first motif completely. For each new motif work through Round 7 (if used) and begin Round 8. When you reach a stitch that should meet a finished neighboring motif, sl st into the corresponding stitch/picot of the finished motif instead of making the usual picot or sl st; continue your scallop. Attach at side loops and corner loops. This gives a flat, neat seam and avoids sewing.
2) Sew-after (block then sew)
- Make and block all motifs. Layout the design and stitch motifs together using a tapestry needle and matching yarn (mattress stitch or whipstitch) through outer sc rounds or side loops. This method allows you to reposition motifs before final join.
One-piece blouse / tunic construction (JAYG, top-down approach)
Decide measurements
- Block one motif and measure its width M.
- Desired chest circumference = C. Half-chest = C / 2.
- Motifs across (top row) ≈ round(half-chest ÷ M). Rows down = desired torso length ÷ M.
Basic build (top-down)
- Neck row (top row): Make a row of motifs across the front (and continue across the back if making continuous sheet), leaving center joins open for the neckline by skipping joins on centre 1–2 motifs if you want a wider neck. For a boat/round neck center the top row.
- Add rows: Add subsequent rows beneath joining with JAYG as you go. Continue until you reach desired torso length.
- Armholes: When you reach the side, leave unjoined motifs (or stop joining) for the armhole depth — cap sleeve ~1 motif height, short sleeve ~2 motif heights, longer sleeves more. You can add sleeve strips separately and JAYG them into the armhole.
- Finish edges: Pick up stitches around neckline and armholes and work 2 rounds sc; add picot or decorative eyelet round as desired. Hem: 1–2 rounds hdc or dc for weight.
Example (starter sizing, motif ≈ 11 cm)
- Small (S): top row across ≈ 4 motifs (front half), 3 motif rows down = modest tunic length — adjust as needed.
- For custom fit tell me your finished chest and I’ll compute motif counts.
Scarf option
- Join motifs in a strip (1 × N for narrow scarf or 2 × N for wider wrap). For drape use a softer yarn and go up 0.5–1 mm on hook.
Troubleshooting & tips
- Motif cups (edges lift): loosen tension or try one hook size larger for petal/arch rounds; block more firmly.
- Motif ruffles/waves: shorten arch chains (e.g., ch-6 instead of ch-7) or remove a few sc in Round 4.
- Joins gape: add an extra sl st when joining; ensure motifs are blocked before JAYG.
- Sides mismatch when joining: verify Round 7 side & loop counts are identical on every motif before joining.
- Want more drape: use a softer yarn or increase hook size 0.5–1 mm. For crisp lace (runners/table), use cotton and a slightly smaller hook.
Variations & styling ideas
- Two-color motif: change color after Round 3 (petals) to emphasize the flower.
- Bigger motif: increase petal dc (7 → 9) and arch chain (ch-8/9); adjust Round 7 counts to keep sides proportional.
- Petite motif: fine yarn + smaller hook or reduce petal dcs (7 → 5).
- Denser look: shorten arch chains and replace dc ribs with hdc.
- Beaded accent: slide small beads onto yarn and work them into arch ribs or into picots for sparkle.
VIDEO:
