by Great day!! Here’s a clear, beginner-friendly, step-by-step text tutorial. It’s written so you can crochet it straight away: exact round instructions, stitch counts to check, blocking, join-as-you-go, troubleshooting and quick variations.
All instructions use US terms.
🌟 Square Motif — Step-by-Step Tutorial
Finished (blocked) size: ~9–13 cm / 3.5–5 in with DK yarn + 3.5–4.5 mm hook (change hook/yarn to adjust size).
Yarn: DK / sport or mercerized cotton for crisp lace.
Hook: 3.5–4.5 mm (or as needed for gauge).
Notions: tapestry needle, blocking pins/mat, scissors, stitch marker (optional).
Abbreviations
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- pic = picot (ch 3, sl st into base)
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- rep = repeat
Pattern overview
Worked from the center out: small center → chain loops for petal bases → puffy petals → tidy sc round → lacy arches with decorative ribs → convert circle → square with side & corner loops → scalloped picot edge (used for JAYG).
Each round includes a short “check” so you can confirm counts before proceeding.
Round-by-round
Round 1 — neat center
- Make a magic ring.
- ch 3 (counts as dc). Work 15 dc into ring. (ch-3 + 15 dc = 16 dc total.)
- Pull ring closed, sl st to top of ch-3 to join.
Check: 16 dc.
Round 2 — loop foundations (petal scaffolding)
- Ch 4, skip next dc, sc in next dc — repeat around.
- This produces 8 ch-4 loops and 8 sc anchors.
- Join with sl st.
Check: 8 ch-4 spaces.
Round 3 — puffy petals (8 petals)
- Into each ch-4 loop work: (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc) — all into the same loop (one cluster = one petal).
- Sl st into the next ch-4 loop, repeat around. Join.
Check: 8 full petals.
Variation: use 5 dc instead of 7 dc for smaller petals.
Round 4 — tidy sc round
- Rejoin between petals. Work sc evenly around the petal bases to flatten and even the motif. Aim for approx 9–12 sc per petal area (adjust ±1–2 so motif lies flat).
- Join with sl st.
Check: outer boundary is nearly circular and flat.
Round 5 — tall lacy arches (frame)
- From a petal tip: sl st to tip → ch 7 → anchor into the sc round between the next petals with (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr) worked into that sc or small space → sl st to next petal tip.
- Repeat all the way around to make 8 large arches. (If ch-7 looks too long/short with your yarn/hook, use ch-6 or ch-8.)
- Join with sl st.
Check: 8 evenly spaced arches.
Round 6 — decorative ribs inside arches
- Into each chain-arch work: sl st to arch base → ch 3 → dc into top of first tr → ch 1 → dc into top of middle tr → ch 1 → dc into top of last tr → ch 3 → sl st into arch base.
- Repeat for all 8 arches and join. (Simpler alternative: 3 dc separated by ch-1 across each arch.)
Check: each arch has 3 inner ribs.
Round 7 — convert circle → square (side loops & corner loops)
- Mark four quarter points (every 2 petals, about 90° apart). Rejoin at a quarter marker.
- Work along each side between corners using a consistent pattern. Example distribution (adjust to motif size):
- sc 10, (sc, ch 4, sc) × 3 (side loops), sc 10 → ch 6 (corner loop).
- Repeat for all 4 sides using exactly the same sc and side-loop counts. Join and fasten off or continue.
Check: motif now has 4 ch-6 corner loops and evenly spaced side loops — it will block into a square.
Important: use identical numbers on every side so adjacent motifs line up when joining.
Round 8 — outer scallop & picot finish (join round)
- Rejoin and work a scalloped edge across the side loops: for example sc 3, (pic: ch 3, sl st into same st), sc 4 — adjust sc counts so each scallop sits flat across the side loop elements.
- Place picots at regular intervals for a dotted finish. Join, fasten off and weave ends.
Check: scallops and picots even; motif lies flat after blocking.
Blocking & shaping
- Pin motif to blocking board/towel into a square. Pull corner loops outward to create crisp corners and pin every picot to sharpen the scallop. Mist with water or use steam and let dry completely. Blocking is essential to get clean square tiles and neat joins.
Joining motifs
Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) — recommended
- Make first motif completely. For the next motif, work through Round 7. On Round 8 (outer scallop) when you reach a stitch that should meet an adjacent finished motif, replace that sl st/picot with a sl st into the corresponding stitch/picot of the finished motif. Attach at side loops and corner loops. JAYG produces flat, tidy seams without sewing.
Sew-after
- Make and block all motifs. Lay out your design, pin motifs, then join with a tapestry needle using mattress stitch or whipstitch through the side loop/sc rounds. This gives flexibility to rearrange before final joining.
Projects & layout ideas
- Runner: 1 Ă— N motifs (narrow) or 2 Ă— N (wider).
- Shawl / rectangle: 6 Ă— 10 motifs (example).
- Blouse / tunic: create panels of motifs; for one-piece JAYG blouse build rows leaving neck/arm openings unjoined.
- Cushion / cover: 3 Ă— 3 or 4 Ă— 4 motif square.
Calculate required motifs by measuring your blocked motif width M and dividing desired finished width/length by M.
Troubleshooting & tips
- If motif cups (edges pull up): loosen tension or go up one hook size for petal/arch rounds; block firmly.
- If motif ruffles/waves: shorten arch chains (ch-7 → ch-6) or reduce sc in Round 4.
- If joins gap: add an extra sl st at join points or tighten join stitches; JAYG works best when motifs are blocked before joining.
- If sides don’t match when joining: ensure Round 7 side counts are identical on every motif before joining.
Quick variations
- Two-color: change color after Round 3 (petals) so petals contrast with the frame.
- Larger motif: increase petal dc (7 → 9) and arch chain (ch-8/9). Adjust side counts in Round 7.
- Smaller motif: use finer yarn and smaller hook or reduce petal dcs (7 → 5).
- Simplified beginner version: replace Round 5–6 archwork with ch-5 loops and 3 dc across each loop (easier lacy look).
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