Materials & finished size

• Yarn: Sport / DK (cotton or cotton-blend recommended for summer; softer blend for drape).
• Hook: 3.5–4.5 mm (adjust to get desired motif size).
• Notions: tapestry needle, blocking pins/mat, stitch markers, scissors, measuring tape.
• Finished tile (blocked): ≈ 10–13 cm / 4–5 in (depends on yarn & hook). Make one test tile to confirm.

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Abbreviations (US)

• ch = chain
• sl st = slip stitch
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet
• dc = double crochet
• tr = treble crochet
• pic = picot (ch 3, sl st into base)
• sp = space
• st(s) = stitch(es)
• rep = repeat

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Pattern — round-by-round (work rounds joined with sl st)

Follow the Check after each major round to confirm counts before continuing.

Round 1 — center (magic ring)

1. Make a magic ring. ch 3 (counts as dc). Work 15 dc into ring. (ch-3 + 15 dc = 16 dc total.)
2. Pull ring closed; sl st to top of ch-3 to join.
   Check: 16 dc.

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Round 2 — loop foundation (petal scaffolding)

1. ch 4, skip next dc, sc in next dc — repeat around.
   → You’ll have 8 ch-4 loops and 8 sc anchors. Join with sl st.
   Check: 8 ch-4 spaces.

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Round 3 — puffy petals (8 petals)

1. In each ch-4 loop work all into same space: (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc) — one full petal cluster.
2. Sl st to next loop and repeat for all 8 petals. Join.
   Check: 8 petals (nice raised petals).

Tip: reduce 7 dc → 5 dc for smaller/daintier petals.

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Round 4 — tidy sc round

1. Rejoin between petals. Work sc evenly around the petal bases to flatten the motif — aim roughly 9–12 sc per petal area (adjust so the round lies flat).
2. Join with sl st.
   Check: outer boundary is smooth and flat.

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Round 5 — tall lacy arches (frame)

1. From a petal tip: sl st to tip → ch 7 → anchor into the sc round between the next petals with (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr) worked into that sc/space → sl st back to the petal tip.
2. Repeat around to make 8 tall arches. (If ch-7 looks too long or short on your yarn/hook, use ch-6 or ch-8.) Join.
   Check: 8 arches evenly spaced.

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Round 6 — ribs / arch decoration

1. Into each ch-arch work: sl st into arch base → ch 3 → dc into top of first tr → ch 1 → dc into top of middle tr → ch 1 → dc into top of last tr → ch 3 → sl st into arch base.
   • Simpler alt: 3 dc separated by ch-1 across each arch.
2. Repeat for all arches. Join.
   Check: each arch shows 3 decorative ribs.

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Round 7 — convert circle → square (side & corner loops) — recommended

(Do this if you plan to join tiles into a grid for blouse/tunic — makes alignment neat.)

1. Mark four quarter points (every 2 petals = roughly 90° apart). Rejoin at a quarter marker.
2. Work each side between corners using a consistent distribution. Example starter counts (adjust to motif size):
   sc 10, (sc, ch 4, sc) × 3 (side loops), sc 10 → ch 6 (corner loop).
   • Important: use the same sc counts and same number of side loops on all four sides so tiles match when joined.
3. Repeat for all four sides. Join and fasten off (or continue).
   Check: 4 corner ch-6 loops + identical side loop counts on each side — tile blocks into a square.

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Round 8 — outer scallop & picot finish (join round)

1. Rejoin and work outer scallop across the side loops: sc 3, (pic: ch 3 + sl st into same st), sc 4 — adjust sc counts so scallops sit flat. Place picots at regular intervals for the dotted/pearl look.
2. This is the round you’ll Join-As-You-Go (JAYG): whenever your new tile meets a finished neighbour, replace that picot/sl st with sl st into the corresponding stitch/picot of the finished tile to attach.
3. Join, fasten off, weave in ends.
   Check: scallops and picots even; tile lies flat after blocking.

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Blocking & preparing tiles

• Block every tile pinned to a square (if you used Round 7). Pull corner ch-6 loops outward, pin scallop peaks and picots sharply. Mist with water/steam and allow to dry completely. Blocking opens the lace and makes joins sit flat — don’t skip it.

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Joining tiles — methods

1) Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) — recommended for one-piece blouse/tunic

• Make first tile completely. For each subsequent tile work through Round 7. On Round 8 when you reach a stitch that meets an adjacent finished tile, sl st into the corresponding stitch/picot of the finished tile instead of working the standalone picot. Join each side and corner as you build rows. This yields flat, tidy joins and minimal finishing.

2) Sew-after (block then sew)

• Make & block all tiles. Lay out your panels and sew with a tapestry needle & matching yarn (mattress stitch or neat whipstitch) through the outer sc round or side loop anchors. This allows repositioning before final joining.

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Assembly — blouse & tunic notes (simple top-down plan)

1. Measure one blocked tile width = M. Decide desired bust C and length L.
2. Motifs across (half chest) ≈ round((C/2) ÷ M). For continuous single-panel top build full width accordingly.
3. Top row (yoke): make top row of motifs across chest; shape neckline by skipping joining across center motifs (leave 1–2 motif joins open for wider neck) or omit a center motif for deeper scoop.
4. Add rows downward using JAYG — join each new tile to the row above as you go. Leave side joins unworked for the armhole height you want (cap: ~1 tile high; short sleeve: ~2 tiles; longer: more rows).
5. Sleeves: make motif strips for sleeves and JAYG into armholes, or leave sleeveless and finish armhole edges with sc + picot.
6. Finish edges: pick up stitches around neckline/armholes and work 2 rounds sc; finish with picot or small scallop. Hem: add 1 round dc for weight so garment hangs nicely.

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Sizing example (quick)

• If blocked tile M ≈ 11 cm: for bust 92 cm → half = 46 cm → across_half ≈ 4 motifs (so front row 4 across, back 4 across if making separate panels, or a continuous sheet of 8 across). Rows down = desired length ÷ 11.

If you want, tell me your M and target measurements and I’ll compute counts (I can calculate now if you give numbers).

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Troubleshooting & quick fixes

• Tile cups (edges pull up): loosen tension on petal/arch rounds or go up 0.5 mm hook; block firmly.
• Tile ripples/waves: shorten arch chains (ch-7 → ch-6) or reduce sc count in Round 4.
• Joins gape: JAYG with slightly firmer tension on join sl sts or add an extra sl st at join points; block motifs before joining.
• Sides don’t line up: check Round 7 side sc/loop counts are identical on ALL tiles — mismatch here causes misalignment.

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Variations & ideas

• Two-colour tiles: change colour after Round 3 (petals) so petals pop versus frame.
• Smaller motif: use finer yarn and smaller hook or reduce petal dcs (7 → 5).
• Bigger motif / bolder tunic: thicker yarn or increase petal dcs (7 → 9) and ch lengths (ch-8/9). Adjust Round 7 counts proportionally.
• Simpler beginner version: replace Round 5–6 archwork with ch-5 loops and 3 dc across each loop for an easier lacy tile.
• Add beads: slide a bead on yarn and work it into the arch ribs or into picots for sparkle.

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Final touches & care

• After assembly, work one tidy round sc around whole garment (or neckline/hem) then add final scallop/picot.
• Wash/hand-wash per yarn instructions; reshape while damp and dry flat. Cotton: can press lightly after blocking.

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