by ✨ Unique Square Motif — Step-by-Step
Finished (blocked) size: ≈ 10–13 cm (4–5 in) with DK/light worsted yarn + 3.5–4.0 mm hook.
Yarn: DK / sport (cotton for crisp lace; softer yarn for drape).
Hook: 3.5–4.0 mm (adjust for gauge).
Notions: tapestry needle, blocking pins/mat, scissors, stitch markers (optional).
Terms: US crochet abbreviations.
Abbreviations
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- pic = picot (ch 3, sl st into base)
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
Pattern concept (short)
Worked in rounds: compact center → ch loops for petal bases → puffy petals → tidy sc round → lacy arch frame with decorative ribs → convert circle → square using side & corner loops → scalloped picot edge.
At the end you’ll have a tile with 4 corner loops and regular side loops for clean joins.
Round-by-round
Round 1 — Center
- Make a magic ring.
- ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 15 dc into the ring. (ch-3 + 15 dc = 16 dc total.)
- Pull ring closed, sl st to top of ch-3 to join.
Check: 16 dc.
Round 2 — Loop foundation (petal bases)
- ch 4, skip next dc, sc in next dc — repeat around.
You will make 8 ch-4 loops separated by sc. Join with sl st to first sc.
Check: 8 ch-4 spaces.
Round 3 — Puffy petals (8 petals)
- In each ch-4 loop work: (sc, hdc, 7 dc, hdc, sc) — all into the same ch-4 space (one petal cluster).
- After each cluster, sl st into next ch-4 loop and repeat until you have made 8 petals. Join.
Check: 8 raised petals visible.
Variation: use 5 dc instead of 7 dc for smaller petals.
Round 4 — Tidy sc round
- Rejoin between petals. Work sc evenly around the petals’ bases to even the outer boundary — distribute about 9–12 sc per petal area (adjust so motif lays flat).
- Join with sl st.
Check: a smooth circular boundary (not cupped or ruffled).
Round 5 — Tall lacy arches (frame)
- From a petal top: sl st to outer tip → ch 7 → anchor the arch into the sc round between the next two petals with (tr, ch 2, tr, ch 2, tr) worked into that sc or small space → sl st back to petal top.
- Repeat all around to form 8 large arches bridging petals. (If ch-7 seems too long/short, use ch-6 or ch-8 to suit your yarn/hook.)
- Join.
Check: 8 evenly spaced arches.
Round 6 — Decorative ribs inside arches
- For each arch: sl st to arch base → ch 3 → dc into top of first tr of the anchor → ch 1 → dc into top of middle tr → ch 1 → dc into top of last tr → ch 3 → sl st into arch base.
- Repeat for all 8 arches and join. (If you want simpler: place 3 dc separated by ch-1 inside each arch.)
Check: three slender ribs inside every arch.
Round 7 — Convert circle → square (side loops & corner loops)
- Mark four quarter points (every 2 petals = 90° apart). Rejoin at a quarter marker.
- Work along each side between corners this practical repeat: sc 10, (sc, ch 4, sc) × 3, sc 10, then at corner make ch 6 (corner loop).
- Important: Use the same numbers on each of the four sides (if you prefer different counts to change tile size, keep them identical on all sides). The example above is a guideline — count stitches as you go so all four sides match.
- Join and fasten off or continue to edging.
Check: four ch-6 corner loops and identical side loop distribution — the tile blocks to a square.
Round 8 — Scalloped picot edge (finish)
- Rejoin at any outer sc. Work around the outside: sc 3, (pic: ch 3, sl st into the same st), sc 4 — adjust sc counts across each side loop so the scallop sits flat. Place picots at regular intervals for the dotted/bobbly look.
- Join, fasten off, and weave in ends.
Check: scallops even and crisp after blocking.
Blocking & shaping
- Pin tile to blocking mat into square form. Pull corner loops outward to create crisp corners; pin every picot and scallop for sharp points. Mist with water or use light steam and allow to dry completely. Blocking is essential to open the lace and make tiles join evenly.
Joining tiles
Join-As-You-Go (JAYG) — recommended
- Make one tile fully. For the next tile work up through Round 7. On Round 8 (scallop) when you reach a spot that meets a finished neighbour, replace that picot/sl st with a sl st into the corresponding stitch or picot of the finished tile. Join at side ch-4 loops and corner ch-6 loops. JAYG gives flat, neat seams and saves sewing.
Sew-after
- Block all tiles, lay out the design, and sew with tapestry needle & matching yarn (mattress stitch or whipstitch) through the side-loop/sc rounds. This lets you rearrange before final joining.
Project ideas & motif counts (quick guide)
Measure one blocked tile width M then compute motif counts.
Example (M ≈ 12 cm):
- Narrow runner (1 × N): length 120 cm → N ≈ 10 tiles.
- Runner (2 × N): width ~24 cm (2 tiles) × length N tiles.
- Throw: 10 × 12 tiles ≈ 120 × 144 cm.
- Blouse front (S): 3 × 3 tiles per panel (adjust for fit), or build one continuous sheet with JAYG.
Troubleshooting & tips
- Motif cups up: loosen tension or go up 0.5 mm hook for petal/arch rounds; block firmly.
- Motif ripples/waves: shorten arch chains (try ch-6) or reduce sc count in Round 4.
- Tiles don’t line up when joining: ensure Round 7 side-loop counts are identical on every tile. Count stitches per side before joining.
- Gaps at joins: add one extra sl st at join points or tighten sewn join; JAYG is easiest when tiles are blocked before joining.
- Want more drape: choose a softer yarn and go up 0.5–1 mm in hook size; for crisper tiles use cotton and slightly smaller hook.
Quick variations
- Two-color tiles: change color after Round 3 (petals) to emphasize the flower center.
- Bigger tile: increase petal dc count (7 → 9) and use longer arch chains (ch-8/9). Adjust Round 7 counts so sides remain proportional.
- Smaller tile: use finer yarn/smaller hook or decrease petal dcs (7 → 5).
- Simplified version: replace Round 5–6 arches with ch-5 loops and 3 dc across each loop for an easier lacy look.
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